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DMedal

Cone clutch disassembly

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DMedal
I'm going over to help a friend who has worn out his cone clutch. But after taking the nut off he can't get the bell part to come off (the part that turns even with clutch disengaged). Repair manual says tap with a brass hammer. What do we do when that doesn't work? Don

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HubbardRA
The nut on the cone clutch is designed for one-time usage. The locking force is not sufficient to keep the nut tight if used over again. Ask me how I know.:D I have had a couple of the cone clutches that were hard to get off. I just tapped with a hammer, rotated the clutch about 30 degrees, tap again, and keep doing this till it came loose. My taps are fairly hard, but not hard enough to dent the metal. I used a regular hammer since I did not have a brass hammer at the time. I haven't had one yet that would not come loose. I have taken several of them off, since I have had three bearings go bad and have also swapped several BGBs from one tractor to another.

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DMedal
Thanks all. I encouraged him by phone to hit it just a little harder and by the time I got there it was off and cleaned up. He reported it would spark once in while for the last year. He had some good leather around and we made up a new lining. Is that clutch part still available? (pricey, I know) What is the longest anyone has run with the leather? Hours is probably the best measure.

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RayS
The part number is 2174862 it is around $75.00 at jack`s small engine. I believe Maynard says he has his original on his 7790. That tractor was probably made in 1983. That wouldn`t be pricey at all.

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HubbardRA
Back several years ago Dutch made one because it went out in the middle of a snowstorm. He was still using it (with a new one hanging in his garage) over a year later. I lined one with leather for my 716H last summer and it still works fine. The other clutch burned up while running my chipper. The one lined in leather does not slip at all. I think it works better than the original.

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DMedal
Thanks all. I love the expertise on tap. The repair seems to have gone really well. Now we have now snow to blow so may have to wait a month or two til grass season. Unengaged it spins freely, engaged it is pretty much impossible to turn. Neat stuff leather.

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mbsengineer
I just beat on mine (clutch that is) for the past 20min, and finally got it loose. Where did you all buy the leather you used to re-line it? How thick of leather should I use? (1/8") Do I need to use any special type of leather? What type of adhesive should be used ... I don't want to use something that would catch fire. Thanks!

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DMedal
1) Leather source - a thick old belt. Don't try this with a belt from Walmart. 2) I split it down to approximate thickness, I didn't measure Maybe 3/16? 3) You want real leather, not the "minced" stuff. Otherwise, it doesn't matter. You can get it at some craft stores, I have a lot of old leather stuff. By old, I don't mean it is decayed. 4) On advice here I used standard contact cement, the super flammable kind. But after you let it cure it isn't going to burn unless you manage to set the leather itself on fire. extra credit) be sure to adjust your clutch after relining. It should spin freely or with only slight drag when disengaged, and be nearly impossible to move when engaged. Work it a bit, and readjust. Don't let it slip or you have to start all over.

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RedbarnRick
Joes outdoor equipment has a few used cone clutches, I wish he'd be a sponsor on this club, so more people find him, but he's already on a few other sites, everthing I've bought from him was in good shape, and he always has a variety of Simplicity parts.

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mbsengineer
Thanks for all the info. I ended up using an old belt. It's 1/8" thick, and when I installed the cone back together, I couldn't get the clutch to disengage ... ie. the mower ran all the time the engine was running. Not exactly a safe situation. I used 2 washers to space out the nut farther so the cone could disengage. It seems to be working. I will probably add some Loctite at some point, but I didn't want to postpone mowing the yard. =) I also used the flammable kind of contact cement to, but didn't have any issues. The biggest issue I had (by far) was getting the darn thing loose to begin with. I kinda messed up the edge a little, but it still functions.

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DMedal
I assume you adjusted the PTO clutch linkage per the manual? (the nuts on the actuating rod). If you're all the way at the end of that adjustment, then split a layer of leather loose, you can make it thinner after it is glued. Also, it may "seat in" enough to disengage after it is used a bit. Just don't smoke it.

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cheken
I am just now learning that there should be a layer of leather on the clone clutch. I am assuming that you are all referring to the front "bell" and not something deeper. Is it this way from the factory? When I engage mine, it lets out a bit of a bark but then grabs solid. Do you all still recommend the leather? I also have a spare clone clutch. Same = no leather. Please comment. Thank you. KC

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RedbarnRick
Cheken, from the factory the cone clutch has brake lining material glued to the inside (asbestos, I believe). The leather belt was for a quick fix if your lining wore out, but some like the leather better. The bark is normal, so are chirps, squeals are not good tho! Try engaging the clutch at quarter to half speed, then rev up the engine once the attachment is working.

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RayS
quote:
Originally posted by RedbarnRick
Joes outdoor equipment has a few used cone clutches, I wish he'd be a sponsor on this club, so more people find him, but he's already on a few other sites, everthing I've bought from him was in good shape, and he always has a variety of Simplicity parts.
It is my understanding that the sponsors of this club house are the paying members.

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