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16 B&S won't start when hot


tripleguy

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Posted
Before I put the tractor away last year, I replaced the Magnetron ignition with a new one. Same problem though - the mower will start OK but once it's all warmed up and I shut it down, it won't start up again until it cools down. Can't say what would happen if I shut it off and tried starting it right away as I usually notice it when I go in for lunch or an extended bathroom break. I've installed a shut off in the fuel line and I've been turning that off as well but that hasn't seemed to help. Any ideas before I bring the mower out this season? Might this be a carb/choke issue? One time last season I did resort to taking the air cleaner off and spraying some starting fluid in the carb and then it started. Hate to have to resort to that.
Posted
Just a thought, do you happen to have a winter anto ice/freeze guard sheet metal on the tractor? Kind of a shield over the carb. If so, it may be boiling / vapor locking the carb. That little attachment, if you don't realize it and it is on the engine, is for winter use, and could be your problem?
Posted
Hot or cold, the Briggs in my 2110 will NOT start, without full choke.
Posted
My guess is that it needs a new coil. We had the same issues with our 7116. I replaced the coil and we've had no more problems.
quote:
Originally posted by tripleguy
Before I put the tractor away last year, I replaced the Magnetron ignition with a new one. Same problem though - the mower will start OK but once it's all warmed up and I shut it down, it won't start up again until it cools down. Can't say what would happen if I shut it off and tried starting it right away as I usually notice it when I go in for lunch or an extended bathroom break. I've installed a shut off in the fuel line and I've been turning that off as well but that hasn't seemed to help. Any ideas before I bring the mower out this season? Might this be a carb/choke issue? One time last season I did resort to taking the air cleaner off and spraying some starting fluid in the carb and then it started. Hate to have to resort to that.
Posted
My 12.5 twin had the same issue and was the coil. Replaced and not any problems, knock wood. Guess the coil warmed up, would open up or not have a good enough spark. Set the gap to .010 of fly wheel, of off I went, hot or cold.
Posted
Thanks guys. That was essentially what I replaced - the coil. Magnetron solid state ignition systems replace the mechanical breaker points with a transistor. I have a brand new one in there and that still didn't cure the problem. Plugs are new, ignition module (coil) is new, it's getting gas but no hot start???
Posted
What is the 16hp Briggs in and is it a vertical or horizontal shaft? You say you replaced the mechanical points and condenser with magnetron. If you didn`t send flywheel back to Briggs to have re polarized, there is your problem. You will not be able to get a Magnetron to work otherwise. Do a search, the address is somewhere on here. Should be a bunch of pages in a search to back me up as well. There is a post on this same subject today or yesterday. Been there done that!
Posted
Try holding the throttle closed while cranking. I have a b-10 that won't start unless you do.It's a quick check and it don't cost anything.:D
Posted
quote:
Try holding the throttle closed while cranking. I have a b-10 that won't start unless you do.It's a quick check and it don't cost anything.
Thanks! I'll try that. Just to clarify, engine is a 16hp B&S from the late 80s that had the Magnetron ignition. Last year I replace the ignition module with a new one - same deal. Another forum member suggested it might be the 'interlock module' located under the seat by the solenoid. He stated he had similar problems until he replaced his. Anyone have a lead on where I might find one? Don't feel like paying the $58 for a new part that might fix the problem.
sovereign72
Posted
Mine did the same thing and all i did to correct it was richen up the mixture to just below the black smoke piont. It never did it again.
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