compostibles Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 Hey folks. Last year I broke one of the two wires coming from behind the flywheel running to the regulator. I fixed it best I could without pulling the engine, and continued on with mowing the grass last season, although it would need to be recharged/jump-started partway through mowing. I figured the splice wasn't consistently making contact. This spring I pulled the engine to definitively splice the wire together. I slipped it back in, put in a new battery, fired it up, and checked the voltage between the battery posts, expecting to see over 13 volts. Nope. just a hair under 12 volts while it was running. I checked to make sure the connections were tight. I turned to the voltage regulator and checked voltages on that today. It has three spade connections labeled: AC--7 volts AC at 2800 RPM +B--0 volts ac and dc AC--40 volts AC at 2800 rpm. My ammeter hasn't registered anything +or - for the last few years. But I did apply a charge from an old train transformer and the needle deflected both ways when switching polarities. I did have to repair some wiring under the panel when my hood eroded through the + battery cable a few years back. Melted some wires. I suspect I may have a short in my wiring harness that I can't see. But before I search for a new wiring harness, does the voltages coming from the regulator sound right? I'm no Tesla, but I don't think those readings mean good things...
JJ MARSHALL Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 may be the regulator look like the voltage going in but not coming out don't know if it's enough. JJ
BLT Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 Both AC's have to read the same. Generally, the regulator is the weak link. Disconnect the AC leads from the regulator and take another reading. You will not hut the alternator windings.
compostibles Posted April 24, 2011 Author Posted April 24, 2011 So take the ac leads off the regulator and take a reading from where to where? Thanks. Jason
compostibles Posted April 25, 2011 Author Posted April 25, 2011 So if I get two differing voltages again, I should start by replacing the regulator?
compostibles Posted April 25, 2011 Author Posted April 25, 2011 I checked voltages again after taking both leads off the ac terminals and putting a voltmeter between the wire and the corresponding terminal. (at 2800 rpm) AC--2 volts +B--0 volts AC--2 volts Same RPM, connected one AC wire to the regulator and the terminal on top gave me 35 volts. Took that wire off and connected the other AC wire and got 5 volts. +B to corresponding wire gave 0 volts. I then connected the +B to the - terminal off the battery and got 2 volts. 1. Possible broken wire someplace? 2. Ammeter not seeing any electricity. If the ammeter is not seeing any electricity, is there a possibility that this is the/a cause for the battery not getting a charge? 3. Differing voltages from regulator means it needs to be replaced? If I replace the regulator without fixing the ammeter issue, will this ruin the new regulator? 4. Will It harm things to run the tractor if the charging circuit isn't functioning, if I recharge the battery after mowing?(about 2 1/2 hrs of mowing)?
BLT Posted April 25, 2011 Posted April 25, 2011 This is a big download, but should have the infp you are looking for. http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_replacement.pdf
compostibles Posted April 25, 2011 Author Posted April 25, 2011 Thanks Bob. I've run this off and I'll take a closer look in the morning. I did happen across a drop-in alternator at this site http://www.leskingmotorcars.com/kingengine.html[url][/url] and partway down the page is a "drop-in" alternator for the cckb. Is this something that would work? Or am I just grasping at straws?
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