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Grind them till they fit.


BrianS

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You, must get the belt to release from the drive pulley. Even a loose and floppy belt will still keep spinning the driven pulley once it has been in neutral. 1.) Adjust driven pulley guards and guides to keep the belt into the driven pulley thus the release is on the drive pulley. 2.) Clean ridged belts, as belts get very flexible they get pulled into the drive pulley even when released. Dirty, greasy belts also won't release from the drive pulley 3.) Don't use belt dressing on a belt used as a clutch, may even be dangerous (won't release). My nickels worth. Mike S.
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And don't forget the little pincher type deal on the idler. Until I got it ALL figured out what would happen to me was the pulley on the trans would keep spinning even though the belt was NOT driving it. When I pushed in the clutch the belt would disengage BOTH pulleys and so the driven pulley would take quite a while to slow to a stop. I now have it adjusted so that it more or less only disengages from the drive pulley. That way when I push down with my right foot I don't have to reach back and manually slow the driven pulley. Would you believe that I once watched a guy driving a 2,000 gallon water truck, that you had to shift just right to mesh the gears, turn the drive shaft into a pretzle. His normal way of shifting it was to rev it up in whatever gear it was in then push in the clutch and ram it into the next gear and again til he got up to speed. Well one time the gear he rammed it into was reverse. It was the boss's son. what can you do?
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I once rode with a truck driver straight out of training school.(at the time he was about 45 yrs old) The truck had a 13 speed and he would do the same thing, wind it up and hold the shift lever against the next gear until it went in. Never used the clutch and never matched RPMs, said the truck was a worn out piece of junk. Funny thing is none of the other drivers had a problem, they said because it was worn it shifted easier.
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I have an old Landlord (mid 60s) with a three speed transmision that I use for tilling. Once I have it in neutral I can't get it back into gear without grinding (at any motor speed). Of course it's worse at higher RPMs. If I jam it from one gear to another it isn't too bad but it seems to be getting worse. The break works fine and I've adjusted the clutch back as far as I can even till it slips going up hill. Is there something in the trans that should stop the gears from spinning in neutral when the clutch is in? Thanks Brian
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Brain, DON'T grind them gears,just put my B112 tranny back together that has seem lots of abuse somewhere in its life time. what an ugly mess.. Seems oppisite of logic to me but adjust your belt gaurd on the bevel gear box to I think its 1/4 inch. Took Kents advice and spend the time to get it right on my 725 and B112 var. spd..How sweet it is..MPH
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I have this problem on my homesteader and i have never gotten it right. I have adjusted it alot both ways and it doesn't seem to make a diffrence.
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