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Retro fitting hydro lift on DA917H


Kenzen

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I purchased a hydraulic lift kit to retrofit into my DA917H (aka 7117). My initial inspection of the parts received, and those installed as part of the manual lift, seem to indicate I might be missing some parts. First (referencing page 15-4 of the 7117 service and repair manual), it seems the support bracket on my 917H is missing the tabs that the hydraulic cylinder attach to - can anyone confirm (before I dive into the job) that that is probably the case: the support brackets are different? Second, on the other side of the hydraulic cylinder mount, I can't tell if the manual lift shaft is different from the hydraulic lift shaft - are they different? I seem to remember seeing a picture that the hydraulic lift shaft accommodates mounting a lever on both sides of the tractor: Are the shafts different between the hydraulic and manual lift setups? thx!
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I do know you will need a kit for the hydro pump. It is some shims and springs that need to be installed for the pressures to work correctly once the line set is installed. I thought the rocker shafts were the same, but I could be wrong.
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I thought the gap where the ram attachs was narrower and that you need to either flex it open or grind down the width of the ram some...
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I used a cylinder from a Sunstar when I added hydrolift to my 716H. I had to grind a couple flats on the sides of the rod so that it would fit between the two bars on the rockershaft. The rear mount (crossbrace) must be from a hydrolift tractor. There is one from a manual lift tractor, and there is also one from an electric lift tractor. I made a drawing to show the check valves and what needs to be done to set them up. I am sure that a search should be able to turn that up, if someone looked for it.
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BrettW - I happened to stumble across this reality when casually reading the service manual for the tractor - I'll have to obtain these as well. Thx. Burntime, Hubbard, Simpleton: So the manual "rock shaft" can accommodate the ram if modified (e.g. flatten ram or widen opening on shaft)? Hubbard - thanks for confirming the cross brace support bracket is different for the hydro. I guess I can weld a set of tabs onto the manual one - what do you think the odds are of finding someone selling one? And I'll look for your drawing. thx!
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That is the kit that is needed. I actully done that to a hydro Monday. You will need this rockshaft. Send me a PM I may have the bracket by the BGB that holds the cylinder. http://cgi.ebay.com/simplicity-7117-kohler-kt17s-rock-shaft-hydrulic-lift-/120715033835?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b2d3ceb
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Kenzen, The drawing that RayS posted in the thread is the drawing I made when I was installing a hydrolift in my AC716H. It shows the check valve parts that are needed and where they fit. These are critical if you are to have correct pressure for the hydrolift. I have another hydrolift that I am planning to install on my 7125H when I get it up and running. I will need to buy the checkvalve parts for it, but I already have the valve and cylinder. These hydrolifts are nice. I have float on the one I installed in my 716H because I used a valve from a PowerMax. The valves for the Sovereigns and Sunstars did not have float built into them. Without float you need to use a cable or a sliding, spring-loaded rod when plowing snow to let the blade follow the contours of the ground. Good luck with your install.
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RayS - I jumped on the ebay item - PM sent thanks! Burntime - $27.78 actually, and well spent - thx!:D Rod - that diagram and directions should be all I need - are those kits still available?
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I went on Jacks Small Engines web site and all the necessary parts are available.....for $60 with shipping (I gasped a bit - all these parts fit in the palm of your hand)...and they had the best prices...and there is no real plan B....so I ordered them...that's a lot of beer....:(
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quote:
Originally posted by Burntime
No, you get to drink beer while doing the installation! It is part of the tractor "experience!"
absolutely...:D
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I received the support bracket from RayS (thanks again!), and rec'd the rock shaft from the ebay vendor. Now I'm just waiting for jack's small engines with the springs and shims to set up the hydro pump. I'll be sure to provide updates.
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Just put it all together, you can shim the pump when you get it. It should not make any difference unless your using the hydro lift. My guess is it would just be slow...
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Mike, the shims affect the pressure, not the flow rate. The shims will not change the speed, just the max force that can be applied. A pressure gauge needs to be used whenever shimming the hydrolift bypass. If the pressure is allowed to go above 800 psi, it could cause the pump housing to crack.
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I rec'd all my part today to complete the job, but now I guess I need a pressure gauge that goes to 1k# or so...
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If you set the pressure with a gauge, I would set it at about 750 psi. There is a manual that takes you step by step through the procedure. I had an electronic copy but I lost all my electronic manuals recently when my hard disk died, so I don't have it to send to you. Maybe someone else could help you with this.
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It's not in here, but here's a link to the sundstrand series 15 manual, in pdf: http://www.cushmantrackster.com/pay-pdfs/sundstrand.pdf I'll keep digging - thx!
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