Nubian Posted May 14, 2011 Posted May 14, 2011 :( My D/A 1920 Ultima (Kohler Magnum) has not been running right lately. It would stalls after about an hour or so run time. I would let it sit a while a then it would start up again. This behaviour continued for a while and then it would not restart after a period of rest. I then started spraying some starting fluid in the carb and it would start right up and run again for a while. Now it refuses to start even after spraying starter fluid in it. What gives?
Burntime Posted May 14, 2011 Posted May 14, 2011 Is the fuel pump shot? Gas cap not venting? Fuel filter clogged?
Nubian Posted May 14, 2011 Author Posted May 14, 2011 Will check those in am, thanks. quote:Originally posted by Burntime Is the fuel pump shot? Gas cap not venting? Fuel filter clogged?
johnmonkey Posted May 15, 2011 Posted May 15, 2011 I think the Magnum is prone to overheating. Check the fins for debris. jh
Nubian Posted May 17, 2011 Author Posted May 17, 2011 Fins are clear. New problem (electrical), thought it was a bad battery went and had it checked @ AZ not the problem. There is a single loud spark type noise coming from the area of the solenoid and a small puff of smoke (always and only on first start attempt), can't pin point location as i'm alone and can't get a good visual followed by a lot of clatter from solenoid. Subsequent attempts just results in a lot of clatter from solenoid. Maybe later I can get a better visual if the Mrs. wants to help. However when I put the jump box to it there is no spark, no puff of smoke, it tries to turn over and run, at which time I would be able to troubleshoot my original fuel delivery problem. btw I swapped batteries with my other Ultima exact same results!sm02
MikeES Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 Could also be the fuel solenoid on the side of the carb. Make sure the little wire is hooked up. I have taken the pin out of the solenoid and operated the engine with no problems.
rpickle Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 Make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight.
Al Posted May 17, 2011 Posted May 17, 2011 HI, Check foir spark, when checking one side be sure the plug on the other side is connected to a plug. If the spark is ok, I would clean the carb, suspect it has water in the float bowl. This is the most common problen we see, with this symptom and it is usually caused by using E10 ethanol. Avoid ethanol as much as you possible can. I don't have time to explain all of the problems it causes. Will elaborate later. Clean the carb and feed it grass and gas and get your mowing done. Al Eden
TommyK Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 quote:Originally posted by Nubian Fins are clear. New problem (electrical), thought it was a bad battery went and had it checked @ AZ not the problem. There is a single loud spark type noise coming from the area of the solenoid and a small puff of smoke (always and only on first start attempt), can't pin point location as i'm alone and can't get a good visual followed by a lot of clatter from solenoid. Subsequent attempts just results in a lot of clatter from solenoid. Maybe later I can get a better visual if the Mrs. wants to help. However when I put the jump box to it there is no spark, no puff of smoke, it tries to turn over and run, at which time I would be able to troubleshoot my original fuel delivery problem. btw I swapped batteries with my other Ultima exact same results!sm02 Electrical components ought not to smoke. I'd start there. Loose connections to the solenoid? Bad solenoid?
TommyK Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 Does the Kohler have a mechanical fuel pump? I have a Cub Cadet with Kohler, one lunger.The PO had said she would run intermittently. He put a price tag on it and set it out at the curb. After about a month, he put "FREE" on it. So I Freed it. Drove it home, made one pass along the front yard then headed to the back yard where she died under the apple tree, never to start up again. I determined the pump needed replacing, as it wasn't pumping. It was expensive as it had a weird, curved, flipper which the crank shaft operates. After removing the old pump, I disassembled it. It's a fetish of mine, I like to know how things work. The pump consists of two, one way valve assemblies pressed into the molded body of the pump. One valve on the suction side, one on the pressure side. One of these valve assemblies had dislodged itself from the body, thereby messing up the pumping ability. I pressed the valve assembly back into the body and she fit snug. I wish I'd opened this thing up before I spent almost $60.00 for a new pump!
Nubian Posted May 18, 2011 Author Posted May 18, 2011 quote:Originally posted by TommyK Does the Kohler have a mechanical fuel pump? I have a Cub Cadet with Kohler, one lunger. I replaced the pump as it wasn't pumping. It was expensive as it had a weird, curved, flipper which the crank shaft operates. After removing the old pump, I disassembled it. It's a fetish of mine, I like to know how things work. The pump consists of two, one way valve assemblies pressed into the molded body of the pump. One valve on the suction side, one on the pressure side. One of these valve assemblies had dislodged itself from the body, thereby messing up the pumping ability. I pressed the valve assembly back into the body and she fit snug. I wish I'd opened this thing up before I spent almost $60.00 for a new pump! Did you have to remove the engine to get to the pump?
TommyK Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 quote:Originally posted by Nubian Did you have to remove the engine to get to the pump? Nope. The pump hangs off the right side of the engine with a fuel hose from the tank then another hose out to the carb. Two bolts. Just make sure you don't get any trash into the crank case from the open hole after you remove it. I have no idea how your Kohler is set up, but if yours has a mechanical pump, it may be similarly designed. The pump, once removed, can be filleted by removing four screws, then splitting it open. The loose valve fell out when I opened mine. Just be sure you get it pressed in the correct orientation.
Nubian Posted May 18, 2011 Author Posted May 18, 2011 quote:Originally posted by TommyK quote:Originally posted by Nubian Did you have to remove the engine to get to the pump? Nope. The pump hangs off the right side of the engine with a fuel hose from the tank then another hose out to the carb. Two bolts. Just make sure you don't get any trash into the crank case from the open hole after you remove it. I have no idea how your Kohler is set up, but if yours has a mechanical pump, it may be similarly designed. The pump, once removed, can be filleted by removing four screws, then splitting it open. The loose valve fell out when I opened mine. Just be sure you get it pressed in the correct orientation. I wish I were as lucky, the one on my M20 Magnum sits below the carb slightly to the right if your facing the front, I think I have to remove mine to get at it. I will post some pix's when I start the job.
Nubian Posted May 18, 2011 Author Posted May 18, 2011 I removed the incoming fuel line from the fuel pump. Bone dry should there not be gas coming through even with the engine off, the tank is full of gas. My plan was to remove the out going line to the carb and start the engine to see if it was pumping gas through.
TommyK Posted May 18, 2011 Posted May 18, 2011 That would tell a tale. Since the one way valve on the suction side would be closed while the engine is off, this should prevent gas from just running out. If, however, during the start phase, no fuel is pumped out, you know you have a pump problem. That's how I diagnosed mine. Fuel in tank, but nothing coming out of the pump with starting. If the tank is full enough, fuel will probably run out if you pull the intake hose, depending on where the tank is, height wise, in relation to the pump.
Nubian Posted May 19, 2011 Author Posted May 19, 2011 Buddy came by to help me out. Checked for spark but is very weak. Coil maybe?
TommyK Posted May 20, 2011 Posted May 20, 2011 Could be. Try cleaning the wires... all of them. I had a rough running mini-van once. I figured out it was the wiring when I went out after dark and fired her up. The spark plug wires lit up like a Christmas tree. Well, realy, not quite that bright. But after my eyes adjusted you could see the blue traces of electricity following the OUTSIDE of the spark and coil cables. When they came close to a metal part the current would divert back to the frame. There was even a blue trace going from the coil tower boot to the metal bracket. I installed all new cables and all was good. The old ones looked fine, just dirty. But I often wonder if I'd cleaned off the road and engine bay grime off of them if the short circuiting would have stopped. I suspect a product like Formula 409 or hand de-greaser, then scrubbing, washing and rinsing might rid the cables of any current carrying crud. It's a cheap fix before spending serious coin on a coil.
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