Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
JordB110

What is going on here? (D-A 1920)

Recommended Posts

djarvis949
I think a lot of electrical problems are easier diagnosed with a good voltmeter (VOM). Check the ground connection from the battery to the engine, frame etc. all to often this is overlooked

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JordB110
So far my D-A 1920 has a new battery and rebuilt starter. Last night I started it up and moved it, then went to start it again and the dash lights came on, but dimly, and there was no action when I tried to start it. Now the lights will not even come on when the switch is moved to that position. What the heck is going on here?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JordB110
My guess is you have a low (dead) battery (same as your original problem of the solenoid "buzzing"). Either something is draining the battery when the tractor is not running, or the tractor alternator is not charging the battery when the tractor is running. Use a test light and check it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JordB110
Any idea what a likely culprit is for the drain on the battery? I will charge it up and see it it holds its charge, but since the battery is new, and I only started the tractor 2 or 3 times, I suspect that it is draining somewhere - but how should I search for the problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mann
After the battery is charged, disconnect one (only 1) of the cables (preferably the negative). Attach the test light clip to the disconnected cable and touch the test light point to the battery terminal where the cable was connected. If the test light lights, (make sure your key and light switch are off) there is current flowing (no good). If the test light doesn't light, you have no short (good). Then, reconnect the battery cable. Attach the test light clip to the negative terminal and the test light point to the positive terminal. Watch the test light closely as you start the engine. The test light will dim as the engine cranks, and then get much brighter as you raise the RPM (if the alternator is working). If you have a VOM or volt meter, check the battery voltage. Crank the engine to knock off any "surface" charge. Test the battery with the engine off. It should be 12 volts or less. Start the engine and raise the RPM. The battery voltage should increase to around 14 volts if the alternator is working. Again, it's just my guess. But, you probably have an alternator problem rather than a short. That does not necessarily mean the alternator is bad. It could be a regulator, fuse, or wiring problem preventing the alternator from charging the battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×