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FordManiac909

update on my 712s

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FordManiac909
so i redid all the wiring on my 712s today. got rid of the key switch and installed a kill switch with a push button for starting it. then i cleaned up the points and set them at .025 like a couple other posts had said to do. finally got it all figured out and it fired up!:D ran great for about 5 seconds then it ran out of gas.C put new gas lines on it from tank to fuel pump and fuel pump to carb with a clear fuel filter between the tank/pump so it keep some dirt out of the pump/carb. now after dumping fuel back into the tank and getting fuel to it i restarted it and it ran like it was constantly choked out and even worse under a load in gear, unless i have to idle all the way down then i smooths out a little bit. it seems like someone is constantly turning on and off the ignition almost shuts down then comes back then back down and back up. i slowly choked it both at high/low idle and it made it worse so its nothing with the choke. could something be plugged up in the carb? i didnt have any card/choke cleaner in the garage so ill go grab some tomorrow afternoon and maybe that will help or dooes someoone have something else to suggest before doing that? another thing, front left wheel has a bad bead leak, goes flat within 2 minutes. i pull the center cap off to remove wheel to clean up the bead but never seen anything like what holds it on. im used to newer tractors just having a cotter key holding the wheel on the "axle". how do these come off? dont wanna lose any parts so id rather ask before just diving into it. and again to everyone with advice/help on my last post, thanks alot!

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HubbardRA
First of all, your fuel filter may be the problem. You apparently have one of the clear ones from an automobile. Automobiles have fuel pumps which produce several pounds of pressure and can push fuel through very fine restrictive filters. Your tractor is only gravity feed, very little pressure. Just get one of the little B/S filters and use that, it is just a screen with little restriction. If your tractor does have a fuel pump (some do, some don't) that may be the problem. My 716H and 713S do not have fuel pumps on them. A Kohler engine will work fine without a pump, with the exception that it may run out of fuel when there is still some in the tank because the bottom of the tank may be lower than the carb in some instances. Even if you have a fuel pump, you should still use the low restriction filters, not the automobile ones. Also, did you adjust the jets in the carb? Sounds like the main jet may need some adjustment. As far as the collar on the front spindle, yes it is a collar with at least one set screw in it. Some have two screws. If you remove, or at least loosen, the screws then it should slide off. I had one on a tractor that wouldn't move even after I took out the screws. On that one I removed the spindle so that I could take the wheel and spindle off and press the spindle out of the collar. It was stuck from years of hardened grease and dirt on the spindle. I cleaned everything up and it worked fine after that. Hope this helps some.

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FordManiac909
well i removed the fuel filter and it helped alot runs better now dont seem like its starving for fuel. i also pulled the head off to see how well the piston and valves looked and they were really dirty so i used some parts cleaner and got all the gunk off put it all back together and it ran better. when i was pulling the head off i noticed all the bolts were finger tight so im thinking when compression was built up it would pick up the head and release some pressure therefore not being able to fire correctly. still has a stuttering problem under load but tomorrow im going to clean and adjust the carb so hopefully that will clear that up. other than that this tractor is a TANK! i love it and deff a great buy at 75 bucks! plus its so heavy it'll make good at pushin snow this winter! i will try to get a couple pictures up tonight or tomrrow.

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FordManiac909
ill check at sears tomorrow fiance works there so i gotta go there anyways to drop her off at work. and yea the clear ones are great so you can see any "debri" going from the tank to the pump/carb

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FordManiac909
another thing i was wondering. if possible id like to hook up hydralics on this tractor so i can have a hydralic controled plow. if this is possible what parts do i need and off of what tractors? the snow plow i modified to fit is a older craftsman/sears plow that i welded a plate to and bolted it to the front of the frame and its all manual lift/angle which will work but id much rather have it easier.

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HubbardRA
Levi, You don't re-shim the pump. The shims go under the spring in the check valve that is on the top as shown in the picture you posted. When I made the drawing above, I did not clearly spell out just where the shims went. A shim can be seen in the top checkvalve same as in the side checkvalve. The top valve is shimmed to provice the correct pressure for the hydrolift. The side check valve is shimmed to give correct pressure for the hydrostatic tranny. Pressures to both really need to be checked to totally max out the complete setup.

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