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simply-jenn

7116 PTO clutch removal

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simply-jenn
hi, this is my first post, so i hope i do this correctly. i'm helping my friend who raises sheep, goats, & turkeys with her simplicity 7116 with a 48" mower deck. we took the mower deck off because she said it stopped cutting. the hardest part of the job was was removing two of the rusted bolts on the mower deck cover.with the help of the owner's manual and the local simplicity dealer who replaced the bushing for the idler pulley on the deck...(it took 2500# of pressure to remove the bushing, he said),the idler pulley on that bracket , and i replaced the broken spring on that assembly. after putting on a new belt and greasing the blade housing zerk fittings (took a lot of grease) , we remounted the mower deck. at first i had the belt incorrectly mounted on the mower deck pulley, but i fixed that. the mower PTO clutch cone (named the clutch plate assembly in the parts manual) would spin, but the pulleys are not turning with it when the PTO lever is pushed forward. i removed the belt & the mower deck pulley is easy to turn, so the deck is not the problem as far as i can tell. my friend then remembered, "Oh, when it stopped working it smelled like something was burning and the mower just stopped, but the engine was running....hmmm...now i remember she did tell me two weeks ago when we first started looking at it. so, i looked at the fluid level in the PTO bevel transmission and thought, "YIKES, there isn't any fluid in it~!..then i read the owner's manual and figured it was just a bit low. she is going to fill it to just above the bottom of the rod. so, i don't really think it's the transmission, especially since the tractor will drive just fine. that burning smell might have been the clutch not fully engaging and causing the lining to singe? i think the PTO clutch rod jam nuts need to be adjusted or else from what i have read here and other places, the clutch cone lining is worn too thin, or perhaps the bearing assembly is worn? as i recall looking at the clutch rod jam nuts, they were pretty far rearward on the rod, so they could be moved forward. i don't understand how the clutch works because it would seem when the PTO lever is moved forward that the assembly would move the pulley away from the clutch cone, but i probably just don't get how it works. my thought is to move the adjuster jam nuts forward with the idea that this would cause the pulley to make closer contact with the clutch cone when the PTO lever is in the forward engaged position. so, if we do need to remove the PTO clutch to check the cone/plate assembly, is it dangerous to try? do we need some special tool to keep the spring from flinging all the parts at us? sorry to make it so long, but i wanted to let you know what was done so far. i looked all over here and the net, but could not find a good discussion of overhauling the clutch, nor could i find a service manual. when i go to the simplicity site & put in 7116h, 7116, or 1690577 for the model number, it does not find any manuals. maybe i'm no putting in the correct numbers. anyway, i would appreciate any help or advice. i have never worked on a garden tractor before, but have helped work on other machinery like a car. my friend is not really mechanically inclined, and is a bit short on funds since she is a small farmer.our simplicity dealer is a great help and has most parts we need or he can order them for us. for example, he had the bushing, tension pulley, spring, and belt all in stock~ i hope she doesn't need a new clutch cone since they cost about $84 from what i can tell. so far we have only spent $70 on the job, including the grease.

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Gordan
Hey, Ray, could I please trouble you for the repair manual link, as well? As it turns out, you were right about my BGB input shaft needle bearing being wobbly, so I'm fixin' to fix it and I'd like to spare everyone my stupid questions.

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simply-jenn
UPDATE: i attempted to adjust the PTO clutch on saturday but found it was beyond adjustment, so i removed the clutch cone to see if the lining was gone. i really couldn't tell. i actually thought the lining was on the side of the clutch, but it's more like on the inside lip, aka "cone". i took the cone to my simplicity man. he said it was shot. i tried to find a place to reline the cone, but was not successful. i saw on the internet some people were trying to glue pieces of leather, but they didn't have a good epoxy for it. so, a new one is on the way. (it went up $4 in 2 days>>boo hoo) the gear oil for the PTO transmission was only 4 ounces low. the model number on the frame is 1690569 ( as i recall), so the mower deck must have been added. i will post again after the new part is in & we have time to install it. the installation should go quickly. i hope i can get it adjusted without too much trouble. it will be exciting when the mower actually cuts again! thanks for the contributions to the project~

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xxsponkyxx
I have done the clutch leather fix and use a two part epoxy ( the type that comes in a syringe - 5 min ) and an old leather belt for the lining. It turned out to be the perfect thickness and works like a dream.

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xxsponkyxx
I used a leather belt that i picked up from a charity shop. Just make sure it is leather. Think i had to angle the ends slightly so that they butt up correctly inside the cover. The thickness was around 1/8 - 3/16. When i refitted it i used Locktight on the nut and just tightened it up enough so it was not starting to rub. Works like a dream.

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guysnyder
I put the leather strips on my front cone PTO, it works perfect. Now I have noticed the pads on the disengage fork are worn very thin. cannot disengage PTO. Was able to get my driveway done, by starting the warm engine with the belt on the PTO, and not being to disengage it. Not the ideal situation, but I got my drive cleaned up. My question is, has anybody used leather strips to replace the pads on the fork?

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