Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
jmhusby

Question--should I fix the Agco (Sunstar)

Recommended Posts

jmhusby
Took the tractor to the shop and they took the covers off the engine and found bent pushrods and bad headgasket. Figure in the neighborhood of $400 for parts and roughly $400 for labor to repair it. I have a two-stage blower with it and trying to decide if I should fix it then sell, or sell as is, don't have any idea what it would be worth. Going to an auction Saturday to look at a Legacy XL and if that happens to follow me home we won't need the Agco. Looking for suggestions as the shop manager will be back tomorrow and need to decide and let him know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RickS
Jim I can't tell you what to do, but I have a Legacy (not the XL which is a later model) and it is great for snow removal. I use it to keep my driveway clear plus remove the snowbanks the plow does on the private road I live on. The plow guy is impressed with what I can do to the snowbanks he creates. Rick.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Brettw
If the rest of the tractor is in good shape, and the $800 is really a complete professional rebuild, I think I would do it. Do you have numerous attachments? Does the tractor have power steering, power lift rear PZTO and lift? All of those things would make a difference. My biggest concern would be, does the $800 rebuild the motor, or just fix the push rods and head gasket? If the latter, I wouldn't spend that money on a partial rebuild.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
stevenj
How did the pushrods get bent? And what other kind of damage is lurking inside that hasn't been found? On the other hand, if you don't fix it what are you going to do with a non-running tractor? Sooner or later at some point we will have to spend money to keep them running. Some have access to surplus parts that allow them to get them running again for low dollars, but for those that don't have an endless supply of parts tractors, we have to spend some money. The decision is yours as to whether or not you want to get the tractor running again. Personally, my opinion, is if the cost to rebuild is greater than 50-60% the cost of a new engine, I'd probably opt for the new engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dave7016
Jim I am in Ozaukee Co wisconsin are you close to me at all? If so PM me I'd be willing to help. I think at this point either a complete rebuild or find a new/used engine would be the best bet. And god only know what you'll find when the motor is apart. Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • SmilinSam
    • PhanDad
  • Today's Birthdays

    No users celebrating today
  • Recent Status Updates

    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
    • tribswede

      tribswede  »  goatfarmer

      ISO a deck for a 6516 H and all the connecting hardware any ideas on where to start?
       
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×