Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
hotrodtractor

difference in gear drive 7000 vs 7100

Recommended Posts

hotrodtractor
I think I may just get more serious about pulling and may want to convert one of my 75th anniversary machines to gear drive. If I am going to do this I want two machines two classes. 1. 7010 Harley 10hp class. 2. 75th OHV 18hp class. I just stripped down a 7010 3 speed and wanted to swap everything from the BGB back to the 75th. I wanted verify that there is/was no difference in the gear drives from the 7000 to the 7100's, and if so that the 7100 gear drive was not superior. The cool part is I will have a extra complete hydro rear drive and lift to save for a spare on my other hydro (worker) machines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hotrodtractor
I have heard the BGB is the same but the stamped # are different. Anyway they appear identical. The 7010 I used for parts was a 3 speed. Many have said the 3 speed is the way to go. The 6 speed that came in the 7100 is really no different than the 7000 3 speed other than there is no high/low??? right? Pullers want the 3 speed from what I have gathered from MikeES.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
You want to run a 3-speed. There is a tremendous load on the drive belt and you definitely want the larger, single belt. I suppose you could possibly modify the 6-speed to use the single belt and turn it back into a 3-speed. I couldn't say for sure because I have never owned a 6-speed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jasper
I was thinking about using a 6 speed and changing the tension pulley and the input shaft pulley to run two belts at one time instead. I had hoped to convert to 5/8 from 1/2 as well. Just food for thought but I would think the friction and drag would increase significantly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rokon2813
All you need to do to change a 6 speed to a 3 speed is change the pulleys. Add a second spring to the tensioner pulley and go to it. With the second spring we could stall the engine before the belt slipped I didn't try with the 5/8" pulleys, but you could probably use the 6 speed with the added spring, just stay in high range.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hotrodtractor
To be clear I have no 6 speed.And the 75ths only came hydro. Is the high portion of the 6 speed really just the same as a 7000 3 speed? I want to make sure before I put effort into swapping in a 7000 gear box and pulley system that the 7100 version is not superior minus the 6 speed portion. If I had a 7100 6 speed and converted it to a 3 speed (basically just run 1 belt) would I have the same as a 7000 3 speed? Or are there other significant differences.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES
Kevin, there is no difference between a 7000/700 and the 7100/900 gear shift tractors. My pullers are one of each, but from the BGB back they are both 7010s. I wanted the clutch tension pulley pulling up and wrapping the belt around the drive pulley. Use a cast/machined drive pulley on the BGB, do not use a stamped pulley. Use can use a stamped pulley on the driven end at the transaxle. I have a full set of driven pulleys with matching belts, from 4.5" to 8". I run 5/8" belts and they have never slipped, the axle tube will not hold up above 40hp but the belts will. All clubs that we have pulled with allow us to change belt and pulley, even between classes. I can change the driven pulley and belt in less than 15 sec. The six speed works pretty good but...with the 1/2" belt I have seen those guys use belt dressing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×