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dentwizz

Mower blade reject measure?

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dentwizz
I have a set of old OEM blades on the 990501 deck and I know there is a rejection measure for how far they can be sharpened down without loss of performance. I can't seem to find it on general Google search, so I was hoping someone in the know could say here.

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powerking_one
I think/would say as a rule of thumb, when the width of the blade gets to 50% or less than the "new" width then it is no longer safe to use. Or if kerf is within 1/4" of the start of the winged radius. Maybe others can quote something more definative from OSHA or OPEI? Tom(PK)

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HubbardRA
The most dangerous thing is having the flipped up sections break off while running. These can become very dangerous high velocity projectiles. Be sure to check the flipped up setions regularly. I have seen blades with them missing and have seen some that were almost ready to break off. If you mow in sandy areas, the sand will be picked up by the vacuum of the blade and it hits the blade like a sand blaster. Over a period of time it will abrade the area where the flat portion of the blade meets the flipped up section and continually wear the metal away till the flipped up sections break off. This is much more dangerous than anything that would come about from normal wear from sharpening.

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dentwizz
I have noted that on my grandmother's OEM cub cadet blades after a year of her use(junk 2008 cub 1000 series). All but one of the blade lifts wore off before the first sharpening. Just walnuts and chestnuts. Fortunately my blades get inspected and sharpened often and they are in good shape but the blade margins on the sharpened edge are almost 3/8 inch inset from the original face. I have been wondering if that has been affecting the turned-deck gap between the blades.

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