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Bru

Newbie with Broadmoor 5010 related questions

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Bru
Just joined, and am real happy to find this site. Courtesy of my FIL who moved to where somebody else does the grass,I have a Simplicity "System 5010 Broadmoor" with 42" mower deck, snow thrower, tiller, dump cart, center blade, and manually-operated front blade. (The front blade and center blade are actually survivors from a previous 707, but work well here.) Briggs 10 HP engine, model 2251707 0149 01, engine code 7412.1712. To get to the point, the engine is fried, as in seized up. Choices seem to be between finding a replacement tractor, or spending about $700 for a Brigg 11+ HP replacement. No room to keep more than one tractor. Queries: What later, slightly larger HP, Simplicities will handle the same implements without modifications? Particularly interested in mower deck and front blade swap-over. Where can I get bolt pattern info to compare present engine with any proposed replacements? Is there a reputable and reliable source for rebuilt Briggs engines? In case necessaray to answer questions re the interchaneability of accessories, part numbers as I understand them from manuals on hand are: Tractor: 169007; 42" mower 1690022; snow thrower 1690034; tiller 1600343; dump cart 1600236; front light kit 1690041. Can't find the manual with the part #s for the blades. Thanks for reading; all info welcome.

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JimDk
Bruce, Welcome to the club. I can't answer most of your questions, but Briggs seems to have kept the same footprint ( bolt pattern ) and shaft size for all the single cylinder, L head, aluminum block engines. I put a newer 12.5 hp in our neighbors Simp. 6108. It fit just fine. I had to use the oil drain pipe from the 8 hp. and change the muffler to a generic type. If you could find a used engine that was in good condition it would seem, to me, to be easier to swap than find another tractor that your attachments would fit. I'm sure some of the other members who have more experience with the vertical shaft engines will jump in and add to my feeble efforts. Good luck, Jim

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timflury
If nothing in the engine is physically destroyed, I would try to break it free and dive in and see what parts I would need to repair the engine. A good look at the cylinder wall would be a good indicator of unwanted wear. When was the tractor last ran?? Are the belts rusted to the pulleys??

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BLT
You might start looking here. You are almost limited to a 10 HP engine because of the volume size to get a 12HP engine in. http://carbondale.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=345&subAreaID=&query=briggs&catAbb=sss I repowered mine with a newer 12 HP IC engine and I had to elongate the engine mounting holes about a 1/4" forward to get blower housing clearance and then modify air cleaner and front hood support. For me, it runs fine. Also the only items you could use elsewhere is the mower by changing the front hitch to a Sovereign class tractor and the trailer. The rest is designed around the Broadmoor tractor.

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Brettw
Welcome to the club! I repowered my 728 LTD some years back with a 12 horse Briggs. Bolted right in. Air cleaner barely fit, but it bolted right in. Same basic tractor as yours. Other than other Broadmoors, or stepping down to a Yeoman or Serf, I do not believe most of your attachments will fit other or bigger tractors. Yours is the biggest of that platform. Used engines from a variety of sources should be relatively inexpensive.

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Bru
Friends, I appreciate all the advice and info! Re engine condition--last ran Monday, when I dashed home from work and tried to get in a quick lawn mowing before dark. Stupidly neglected to check oil before running, and engine quit mid-mow and now will not turn over. My fault for killing this machine. I like this tractor, even though everything is manual--guess I've just gotten used to it over the 20 years since it was given to me.(Not to mention that I just plain like old iron I'm not a mechanic, so all this will be a learning experience, whether I replace the engine or try to repair. I haven't been able to find online any cylinder /piston, etc kits for this model engine, tho Jack's has a cyl / piston kit for an 11 HP--to much to hope for that it would be a usable upgrade? I'm thinking I'd rather put in an engine with cast-iron sleeve / cylinder so I don't have to do this again for another 30 years--any thoughts on that? Thanks again. If I wind up repairing and keeping, I'm sure I'll have additional questions including both the engine itself and whether / how I can add hydraulic lift to front and rear attachments. Bru

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Bru
More questions already: Do all Briggs engines in this HP range have the model, series, etc numbers visible on top? I'm thinking I can save some road trips by calling and asking sellers to provide that info to eliminate unsatisfactory candidates--thoughts on that, or what other easy-to-find info I should ask sellers for, and where I look for what number ranges indicate what characteristics re ovearall size, electric start, cast-iron vs aluminum bores, etc? I have printed out this site's article on what to check for, and will study that for when I go look at motors. How difficult is is to add electric start to a recoil-start engine? E.g., swapping the electric starter from my 5010 onto another Briggs engine? Thanks again for any suggestions. Wife wants me to just hire a lawn mowing service...Where's the fun in that? I figure I may hire it mowed 1 time, then work on the Simplicity over the winter if necessary.

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rokon2813
Well lets see... Engine numbers move around over the years, not always in the same place. Adding electric start depends on the individual engine. You need a ring gear flywheel to start with. Some recoil engines have them some don't. You also need a charging system. If the recoil start machine has a battery, then it probably has a charging system. If no battery, probably no charging system. Adding hydro lift to a broadmoor? Don't think any came with it, and don't recall anyone adding it. That could be a fairly major undertaking. Thats a start...

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SmilinSam
older 10HP rear engine riders with electric start would be good engine donor candidates. Most of those can be picked up for $100-$200 in running condition. Just have to make sure its the same sort of Briggs and not a tecumseh when looking. Alot of them used 8 hp engines, While the 8 and 10 are the same size blocks, the 8 probably wont pull the 42" deck, you likely need the 10. Then again, the old 700 & 725 tractors used a 7.25hp engine running a 42" deck so I dont know about that??????

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Bru
Boy, the virus you guys carry is really fast-spreading. I am hopefully deferring as now less urgent the repair of the 5010 since I just became the hopeful owner of 3/4 of a 1989 6512.5. I'll pay him the other 25% when I find a trailer to go pick it up. Been sitting outside for a while, and the battery is dead, but eventually jump-started, ran, and forward / reverse seem to work. Mower deck has some "pocket parts" and there may be a few more loose bits scattered about the guy's yard. I'll hunt up whatever parts diagrams I can find and plan on: 1. Scrounging up whatever parts are missing & fixing mower deck 2. replacing all fluids forthwith 3. getting whatever B & S manuals are necessary to learn to tune engine 4. Probably replacing belts. 5. Replacing battery and adding trickle charger 6. pulling and sharpening / balancing blades What else springs to mind? I'll put the old 5010 in the restoration queue for now until an inexpensive engine or engine parts show up. Re accessories & rear pto: this machine originally had a leaf / grass bagger on the rear. Is there some different set of parts I should be looking for, re mounting or rear PTO attaachment of thing like snowblowers or tillers? Thanks again; undoubtedly more questions later, after I drag the carcass home. BTW, first got into simplicity about 1978, when the FIL got the 5010 and gave me his prior 707. He used to make a lot of the paint for Simplicity, and would just order straight from his friends at the factory when he needed equipment. Bru

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