Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
landlord2110

lawnmower adjustments

Recommended Posts

landlord2110
I have the original 42" deck for my landlord & the only maintiance done on it is new rollers and shaft. The arbor are ok considering there 43 yrs old. My problem is when you mow, the grass rolls back like your going to fast, but I have tried in second & third gear and no difference. The height of the leading blade is 2 3/4" height and trailing height is 2 1/2". The blades are sharp. One concern I have is the front rocker arms, the pin hole is worn from years of use, but not sure of that gives you the grass roll up effect after mowing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dads707
From what I have read (someone correct me if I am wrong), the leading edge is supposed to be higher. That way the front of the blade is not doing all the cutting. Some here have made a jig so you can remove the deck and adjust it while it is off the tractor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Make sure you didn't make the same mistake I and several others have made by twisting the belt the wrong way when you put it on the deck pulley. This turns the blades the wrong way. It will cut, but not smooth like it should. If I remember correctly mine looked bent over when I used it with the belt twisted the wrong way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dentwizz
Yes the rocker arms are influencial on bounce of cut. Good news is they are replaceable bushings once you unbolt them. Less slop the better but it does have to pivot a little bit to allow adjustment. I redid that on my 42" 3 years ago and it made a bit difference on the bumpy yards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dentwizz
The bushings are what the bolt tightens to and the rockers ride on them. I believe it is the same bushing used in the side to side tie rod for steering the front wheels. Not pricey or hard to come by if you take one apart and go to the hardware store.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RayS
The bushing - spacer is L on page 4. That is the wear item. The manual is in the link below. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8arG1rE3Cvh5kbp796Dq

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • casinojim
    • Brettw
    • Simple Guy
    • killbasser
    • MRR
    • GregB
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. Chad Bartlett
      Chad Bartlett
      (37 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
    • tribswede

      tribswede  »  goatfarmer

      ISO a deck for a 6516 H and all the connecting hardware any ideas on where to start?
       
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×