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heron

Sunstar deck..couple newbie questions

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heron
Have another thread about just picking this tractor up...97, 569 hours, Kohler, 60" deck. Deck had some rust so it began... Had the tractor 5 days...totally stripped the deck..hope I can get it back together :)) The carriage bolts, nuts, double nuts etc... some are pretty rusty Took some heat and liquid wrench to get free. 1.Do you guys recommend just switching all the hardware I can out to stainless steel? Or, soak in something and re-use? 2. The arbors are off, bearings spin fine, I plan on sandblasting the top part with the built in race..but not the race part on the underside. What is the white stuff down in the race..like a putty or grease? Do I need to replace it with something? 3. Once it's all painted up will I have to run taps in the various holes or are they generally fine. I'll be putting two layers of POR-15 on the bottom of the deck and two coats on top plus a coat of the POR frame paint. May get some new stickers. Any other advice while I have this thing apart would be great. Overall it's in great shape but I'd rather be pro-active with the rust rather than wait until there is lots of it. I'm off to the sandblaster person in the morning.

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MysTiK
I replaced bolts on top covers, they were rusted, mismatched, hard to undo, hard to work with = gone. New ones are shiny for now. Not stainless steel, just small bolts from local hardware, cheap, job done, can redo if required in another 30 years. sm03. My deck was a replace from a parts tractor that sat for a couple years. Works fine. Spindles ok. I filled my spindle housings with grease, took a 2nd tube to finish that. Dealer recommend for grease spindles is either =don't or =do add 5 shots of grease. A very few of us use the fill-er-up method. Note bearings are usually sealed and greased for life, or something like that - I got enough grease in there for whatever it needs. The grease is to offset or prevent condensation water. It's a theoretical concept, much discussed, many opinions. Note some arbors don't have zerks. In filling them, I grease gun until it spurts out somewhere. Any condensation will get lost in a pound of grease. That's my view. And I expect to have to add a few shots of grease annually to keep them full - don't know where it goes. But if you have zerx, put some grease in there.

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PhanDad
About what hardware to use. In the past, I've used all stainless, but I agree that's overkill. Plus sometimes if you tighten the hardware too much, the stainless will gall and the reason you switched to stainless is lost. So what I've been doing lately is using stainless nuts (and sometimes stainless lock washers and washers too) and plated bolts. This prevents rusted together bolt/nut. It's cost effective also, since stainless nuts are relatively cheap, especially in boxes of 50.

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heron
Thanks for the input guys! I just finishted up two coats of silver POR-15 on the bottom, 1 coat on the top followed by the POR-15 chasis black. Wow, that stuff is nice..should be for $45/qt. But, if it does what everyone has told me I will not have to deal with a rusty deck ever again. I went with regular bolts and nuts..I think I'll tighten them up and coat them in Fluid Film. Another pricey but unreal formula. Still not real sure what to do with the grease in the arbors..? Do I just dump a bunch of grease in and around where the old grease is and put everything back together? Then simple grease the heck out of the zirk until I see grease coming up and into the bearings? Only one bearing seemed like the grease from the zirk had worked all the way up to the bearing. One more question..should I have used all hardened bolts or are regular grade 2 okay? The hardware store had no hardened carriage bolts..

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RayS
Standard grade bolts are fine. That is what they used to put it together with. You can just pump some grease in the arbors. Unless you remove the seals the grease isn`t going to get into them anyway. They are sealed bearing and they are rated at 500 hours from what I have read in manuals.

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heron
One more thing... How do you go about removing the bearings? Is it straightforward? Can I bring them down to my local bearing supplier and match them up without any issue? They seem to spin with no gritty feeling but I hate to put them all back and then have to redo them in a year. I may go ahead and replace the front wheel bearings also. I'm putting new tires on the front so I'll be servicing the front wheels while I'm at it. Do you guys usually carry an extra deck belt as a back up? This one seems fine and was supposedly replaced about 50 hours ago but I hate to have it break on me and have to wait for a replacement. There are no dealers around me.

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RayS
The bearings will drive right out. No need to be pressed out. If there is no big rush on the bearings they are alot cheaper in the link below and the quality is great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-6-Z9504B-Z9504RST-Mower-Deck-Spindle-Bearing-/150571927151?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230ec9466f

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heron
The part number on that site does not have the updated number but does have an old number of 108202.....I assume it's the same bearing. Have not examined it yet but which way, how, do you drive it off..?

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