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SmilinSam

HB-110 Project now under way..

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SmilinSam
Got most of the parts lined up to start this venture. so away we go.. This is going to end up being a short frame hydro ( Keeping the original short wheel base to the 110 tractors. Should be a breeze comopared to the 2012 I did last spring as I wont have to deal with the lower seat deck associated with that. using a later 110 version seat deck that does not use the double hinge mechanism. For reference, here are the links to the other two conversions I have done: [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=110604&SearchTerms=project [/url] [url] http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/variable_to_hydro2.htm [/url] Meet the donors for this project: A rusty and dull, but straight and tight 2210 will be thebase we are building on. Will be repainting AC Yellow, and replacing the pertinent Simplicity parts with AC parts, IE hood, grill and Steering Wheel. [img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1004.jpg[/img] [img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1005.jpg[/img] Got a Very abused 7100 series to rob parts from.. [img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1001.jpg[/img] Need this mainly.. a Side mount filter tranny, so I can cut 4" out of the tranny frame plates.. [img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1002.jpg[/img] Also using some of the parts from this junker too.. [img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1006.jpg[/img] That one has actual rust INSIDE the transmission pump, along with chunks of other dirt and crud. Unbelievable. The Gear box may be salvagable along with the hydro linkage. Maybe a few other odds & ends, but its mainly junk. So...here we go a little each night after work over the next many weeks/months. Taking my time and going to relax and have fun doing this one like I did the HB-116.dOd

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SmilinSam
Some progress from the last couple of weeks.. Took advantage of the warm weekend last week painting a few things I disassembled & cleaned the week before.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1009.jpg[/img]
Then I spent this last week working a hour or two each night after work on the transmission assembly. Took it apart down to the framework. And layed out the lines to cut the 4" sections out. You have to start the first cut just far enough away from where the Gear box bolts to so the weld wont interfere with the Gear box. I use a combination square And set it on the flat area above where the gear box would bolt to. This side is the short frame piece side. You also want to scribe a mark following the top edge of the discard piece over onto the gearbox piece so you can line it up with the top edge of the rear half you are goin to weld it back together to.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals026.jpg[/img]
Make a line and then use a level the move the square over on and mark the other line 4" away.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals028.jpg[/img]
Then you end up with something that looks like this..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals029.jpg[/img]
I have found a sawzall with a short blade works best on these cuts. The cuts dont need to be absolutley precise, just fairly straight. Once you have cut your sections out and discarded them, you take the shorter frame piece halves from the belt drive side of the Sundstrand tranny and clamp them to a flat table surface and weld them back together. I weld both sides. This frame piece is welded first, then you bolt it to a junk gear box and then bolt it to the tranny case. Then you can bolt up your forwrd piece of the PTO side to the gear box. Then you are all set to weld up that side while the bolts hold everything in place. Practice up on welding vertical, because the tranny will only tip so far. I generally do the outside weld first then take the gear box out and do the inside weld, welding short welds , top , bottom, then middle rather than one countinuous weld. Heres the PTO side of the tranny welded back together
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals035.jpg[/img]
As you can see I also cut the pulley slot bracket from the discard piece and welded it back on my tranny frame in the same relative position as it was in the original 900 series frame setup. its back 4" from its original position, putting it too close to the axle and vent tube to be able to move the pulley all the way back in the slot. It will still work, but might have to use a slightly shorter belt than usual. I'll live with that. The goal here is to be versatile and have the use of a 900 series PTO setup, as well as being able to run a B series center pto off the Cone.:D Going to spens some time this weekend painting the tranny and getting it all reassembled so I can bolt it up to the frame. Then I can start the really fun part of engineering all the control linkages. This is the part I like the bestdOd

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SmilinSam
Progress...
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals036.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals037.jpg[/img]
The Spring bracket also needed some material ground off on one side to clear the Control cup bracket on the back side of the frame in the picture.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals038.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals039.jpg[/img]
All the mechanicals seem to be in functioning order. Still, like the 2012 hybrid, there is no way to declutch the belt for cold starting. Just not enough room to engineer something practical. My goal was to at least take some tension off the belt( which it does) and give me a working parking brake/brake. I reduced the pulley size from the 2012's 2.5" to this 2" and re did the idler mount stub which keeps the idler pulley from hitting the drive pulley, and also allows using the stock Sunbdstrand 5" drive pulley. I think I will re-do the 2012 with this version later this winter. Anyhow, here we are now..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals041.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals042.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals044.jpg[/img]
Now pondering the hydro control linkages and lever. Ran into an unexpected problem.....though not totally impossible to overcome, I dont think anyhow..

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larry8200
What are problems except to be overcome? I think a short wheel base plus BOTH a hydro and cone clutch makes me a little bit envious. Looking forward to more! I suppose your probably doing a hydrolift too?

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by larry8200
What are problems except to be overcome? I think a short wheel base plus BOTH a hydro and cone clutch makes me a little bit envious. Looking forward to more! I suppose your probably doing a hydrolift too?
The potential problem was that you cant use the spring dampener control rod that goes with the sundstrand, as the B-110 dash tower plate covers half the bevel gear box. Where as it does not on the 2012. Thus no room to install it here in the B-110. No matter, what I thought of tonight using a solid rod should work . At the moment the plan is to pipe the hydraulic lift off the sundstrand just like any 900 series would. Will be like the hydrolift on the HB-116 I did years ago except I will be using a solid lift rod instead of a cable, and will attempt to use a powermax type single spool valve with a float detent. Maynard said I needed to improve the appearance of the hydrolift lever setup on the HB-116, so ...I have an idea for that too..8D

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SmilinSam
Yet another installment for your viewing pleasure...
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1018.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1013.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1012.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1020.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1022.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1019.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1025.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1026.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1028.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1035-1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1031.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1030.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1032.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1033.jpg[/img]
Next will be making up a rod to connect the PTO to the lever, and a brake rod. Solid lift rod will need to be bent in a couple of spots, and I believe I will be adding a third leg to the lift shaft to actuate it from. I think the hardest parts are all done now...

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SmilinSam
HAd to go retrieve the rear uprights ( seat deck supports) off the 2210(B-110) as I found that the Sunstrand uprights place the seat deck 1" too far forward. Heres what I ended up fabrication for a fix.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/Picture006.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/Picture007.jpg[/img]
As you can see in this following picture, along with the previous two, that the B-110 style uprights swing back an inch farther than the original Sundstrand ones.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/Picture009.jpg[/img]
Heres a little progress made the last few days.. Even now in bright colordOd:D
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/Picture010.jpg[/img]
As you can see in the picture , I opted to use the 900 series double keyway steering arm & spindle. Next is the front wheels & tires. Got some really nice Carlisle turf savers 4.80x4x8 from a dead rear engine rider. they even all came off the rims good and easy. Got to paint the 2210 rims and re-install the tires this weekend. The rear tires may be while. Have 1 new out of production Carlisle Power trac 23x8.50x12 and am trying to locate a mate for it. Not having much luck...

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SmilinSam
A little more forward movement . I made the engagement rod for the PTO. Totally a trial and error procedure. By the time I got it bent so it would move freely it was too weak to keep from flexing when you disengage the clutch. So much so that the clutch wouldnt disengage, much less have the needed travel as per the manufacturers specs. Thus I needed to make a gusset and some bridgework to stiffen it up. Seems to work fine now.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals045.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals047.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/bdecals046.jpg[/img]
I also recieved frm Rokon several needed parts for the project. What do you think of the hood now Dan? Just needs decals now..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1001-1.jpg[/img]
Also he brought me a 10 hp engine that came from Daddycat, which previously came from Kent. Was in Kents Big ten, so the yellow paint had to go to use this in the HB-110. A quick facelift:
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1002-1.jpg[/img]
I also put a correct B series pan on the engine, removed the tall dipstick & pipe that was threaded into the block, then plugged the hole with a flush allen head type plug.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1003.jpg[/img]
I have no doubt the engine has good guts. Took the head off to clean what little carbon there was and the hone marks were all still clearly visible throughout the bore. the carb was junk , so I robbed parts from 3 more carbs to build one workable one( at least I hope its workable). Still need to polish up the chrome air cleaner cover. Plan is to get the engine in the tractor tomorrow and hook up the driveshaft. Then I can play with the hydraulic lines and fittings from there..

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SmilinSam
I think the double keyway versions are more apt to stay put, that and the steel is thicker as well on the arm.I cant remember when those first appeared, whether it was on the 3300 or 3400 series?? ** I see the 3314 here has the double keyway. Heres a couple of shots of todays progress:
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1005-1.jpg[/img]
The seat is the one I originally had on the HB-116 which I bought back from Maynards things from Dan. I repainted it White instead of black. The seat springs I made from cone clutch PTO springs. The ends of those springs are flat, so I simply welded fender washers to one end of each spring and drilled the hole in the washer out to 5/16, then bolted to the seat deck. I always wondered what I could use all those springs I had saved over the years for:D Now this p[icture is getting me excited[^]
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB-110%20Project/hb110g1006-1.jpg[/img]
on to the hydraulics... might be a little whle thoogh. Going to take a break and make some Christmas presents out in the woodshopdOd

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SmilinSam
Progress has been slow since the holidays, but heres some of the things I got done in the past several weeks.. New Ag Tires on fresh painted rims. Finally found that elusive second Carlisle power trac. Another Ebay Auction..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/023.jpg[/img]
A brand new carb..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/021.jpg[/img]
Got the lift cable made up and routed. It had to be raised up and over the PTO rod assembly. I used a statich guide pulley. Not enough room for a pulley that will turn. This one is a copper alloy cable pulley, so the cable may slide over it ok without much wear. Wheel horse used steel flexible guide tubes and I rarely ever saw a broken cable with their setups, so this should be Ok.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/020.jpg[/img]
I cant stress enough, just how little room there is to do anything in here..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/022.jpg[/img]
Then the grand venture is coming together, the hopefully more appealing hydrualic lift control..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/018.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/003.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/019.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/025.jpg[/img]

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