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oneeighty

Shuttle Shifts and Garden Tractor Pulling

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terryb71
I was trying to pull some rather large logs down the hill behind my house the other day and got the front tires about two feet off the ground before i caught it!! All depends on how you have the belts adjusted. My tractor is a 3416s .

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HubbardRA
That is why pulling tractors have wheelie bars. I like shuttle trannys, but I don't think they would be a good candidate for a puller. The extra belt with the split pulley would not likely hold the load necessary during pulling competitions.

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Homesteader
i pull quite frequently and the most important thing to look for in a rear end of a tractor for pulling is least amount of possible slippage. Like HubbardRA stated, the split pully would likely slip under the load. that is why cub cadets are so popular, they have a driveshaft back to the rear end. simple and cheap to obtain, fix, and operate. i also pull a ford 120 that is belt drive but i run a 1" shorter belt with double springs on the idler and i wedge my foot under the pedal when pulling [IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb260/glennske/DSCF1129.jpg[/IMG]

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MikeES
The stock shuttle shift will slip when pulling. If you do not need reverse (some clubs require a working reverse) you can drill a 1/4" hole between the split sheaves on the driven pulley and put a std (not hardened) 1/4" cap screw to lock the 2 sheaves together. It will work just fine within the limits of the 1/2" belt/clutch. NOTE: do not put it in reverse with the bolt in place. On our pulling tractors we use a std. 3 speed with 5/8" belt with the clutch pulley engaging up to get more wrap on the drive pulley.

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HubbardRA
If you bolt the split pulley together, then I would recommend that you either remove or loosen the reverse brake band so that it cannot activate reverse while the pulley is bolted together. Later you could remove the bolt and reinstall/readjust the band and the tranny would again work like it came from the factory.

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