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rpickle

7016 repower options

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rpickle
Picked up another project:). It old Briggs is tired and smokey. CL has 2 engines that I am interested in. The first is Vanguard (303447) 16hp Was on a generator and is a pull start. The other is a 16hp Kohler (ch16). It is electric start and was removed from a Cub Cadet. Are either worth Being swapped?

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RayS
It wouldn`t bother me to put a Vanguard in anything. Do a forum search in the archives for Vanguard to see if it has been done. The 7000 series frame sides are taller and more than likely would need to be notched for clearance. The 7100 series frame has a little more room in engine compartment. I know I seen one stuffed into a B series on here, but it had modification. There is or was a 16hp (243437) Briggs on Craigslist in Indianapolis for sale. May have one that I would part with.

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acjustin
I am interested in putting a vanguard into my 7016. From what I have seen from Small Engine Warehouse is you can't use the oil filter. I think it will be tight in space when comes to the muffler being the 7000 tractors also have a shorter engine compartment than the 7100 series.

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neilb1956
G'day, I put a 20 hp Vanguard into my 7016,I didn't want to hack into the frame so I made an adapter plate to relocate the oil filter, and the eng.came without a muffler so I made a muffler that fits under the bonnet (hood) without any problems,and it blows out the original hole,the end result was well worth the effort, heaps more torque, and quieter and smoother,also uses a lot less fuel, but then the old 16 hp was very worn out,cheers Neil,

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RayS
The remote filter is in link below. http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Accessory%20Catalog%20ms3880.pdf Patrick Rarick list what he has put them in the link below. Wish he was still on te site. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=86413&SearchTerms=vanguard,914

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JimDk
Rick, To expand on my short reply above, neither of the two engines in your original post would work without modification. The Vangard with no starting system, or the Cub's Kohler oil pan/mounting base. I have had good luck repairing Briggs engines if the crank and bore are within specs. They usually are, if the engine has not been abused. Dirty air and oil are the culprits. If the welsh plug, breather tube or air cleaner are missing and/or the oil is thick,low and black, I expect the engine to be junk, and not worth rebuilding. Good luck, Jim

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RayS
If it is a pull start you will need a flywheel more that likely with a ring gear, stator, flywheel stub shaft and a starter. You can run into a bunch of money quick on those parts unless you could find cheap on ebay. The flywheel would be the most expense and hard to tell without removing flywheel if motor is machined for the stator to mount to it. I have a nice Honda here for another repower. I need a flywheel for 20amp system if I want to run lights and a air cleaner as well. Honda wants around $400.00 for the flywheel. I do have a 3amp flywheel though and don`t really need lights, I guess on every tractor. There are no used parts on ebay for the GX620. Just an example of how crazy parts prices can get for a Honda. Ebay is probably saturated with Vanguard parts though and more than likely wouldn`t be as expensive.

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rpickle
Hmm, great info guys. Of course, I'm a tight-wad and don't want to dump money in a solution. If for $200 I had a nice Vanguard to throw in with minimal extras to buy, it would be a no-brainer. I have not rebuilt a Briggs motor and actually only have one other small engine that I have "rebuilt". It was a vertical shaft Honda, GX390V. Put rings and valve seals in it. Came out pretty well and ran for me several years before I sold it. Only thing I did wrong was overtighten one of the overhead rocker arms. Snapped in two one day while mowing. Luckily I had scored a spare motor (hole in the block) for 25 bucks. Replaced the rocker arm and it never gave another issue. No smoke either. Appreciate everyone helping me make a better decision. I am no expert and can use the advice. I hope to get a better look at the original motor soon. If I decide to work on it, then I need to get it pulled and into my shed that has power and heat:)

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colincox1
This may help, this is a repower I did http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=114206 [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=114206[/url] good luck

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RayS
Even if you had $500.00 total in it you would be doing great. Those flywheel appear to be cheap on ebay. It may even have the ring gear already but if pull start I doubt it. I have around $500.00 total in my Honda conversion and difinitely would do it again. The one thing I like about this is no gas drip period. No oil coming out the governor shaft to make a mess either. I replaced a new 16hp Briggs with this but have on shelf for future use if need be. I definitely would try a Vanguard, Robins Subaru, Kawasaki or Command. It is just time and patients waiting on the right deal. If you do get the motor see if Small Engine Warehouse would give you the part number for the flywheel adaptor in picture below. I have tried to find it with no luck what so ever. It kind of looks like the Command adaptor? I wonder if they have the same bolt pattern?


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RayS
quote:
Originally posted by Ronald Hribar
Ray checked with my inside source at Briggs,it is not a Briggs part
I will compare it to my aluminum Kohler adaptor tomorrow. I guess we can compare it now.:D It is for Kohler Command. Kohler part number 24 029 09.


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hotrodtractor
not sure if the command stub shaft will fit the vanguard I never tried. If they do that's good to know. I did buy a stub shaft for mine on ebay for like $80 which had a 1 1/8 keyed shaft. In my opinion unless the drive shafts line up you may be better off using a ujoint and slip/yoke as then you can have more angle and by cutting ear off drive shaft and just sticking it in the yoke you have more wiggle room....ie no spacers on flec disks. my .02

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