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rpickle

new project

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rpickle
Well, my new project has not disappointed me... PO said it ran this spring when he tilled his garden. Maybe but I doubt it.... This tractor appears to be either a 3416 or an early 7016 shuttle drive. The engine electrics have all been cludged, by-passing the voltage regulator and no safeties. Engine appears to have been an upgrade at one point. Model number is 326431-2582-01 with a code of 8107231. It has a points cover, but nothing behind the cover, not even a plunger hole. Pulled the engine off of the tractor so I could get the shroud off. Found 2 broken fins on the flywheel, damn! Not sure if the coil is the type that is solid-state. Have attached a couple of pics. PO said the engine smoked some. Piston seems "loose" in the cylinder. Can easily press it down with the head off. Also, I can "wiggle" the piston slightly when at TDC. I would think it should be tighter. Impressions, advice or sympathy appreciated:) [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/022-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/026-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/025-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/024-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/023-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/021-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/020-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/019-2.jpg[/IMG]

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RayS
I listed the parts manual earlier today for the Briggs so you can check there. This appears to be a mageneto with the clip on electonic igintion (394970). which they used in the early days. If there is no points there has to be a a magenetron or the clip on ignition. it is in your last picture. There would be no plunger hole. I am sure after 30 years there would be some play in piston. Not for most of us, but we are nuts. 3 or 4 tractors or more. 333A 398811 Armature–Magneto (Breaker Ignition) (Used After Code Date 81073100). 333B 298968 Armature–Magneto (Breaker Ignition) (Used Before Code Date 81080100).

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dentwizz
Sounds like the 12 hp I just put in. Rings are a bit sloppy, but it does run and doesn't smoke after it warms up. That coil is the same as I pulled off a 10hp which works pretty good in said 12 and I had it plus the flywheel in my now defunct 23d. Magnetron flywheel and coil, albeit early type.:) While it is open, sand or wire brush all metal contact surfaces related to the coil and it's mount since it is a casting. Bad contact can mean little or no spark. Rings are not too expensive by themselves, it is the honing and boring that can cost a little. Worth while though. If it doesn't bother you too much, try benching testing it and see if it smokes. Some do some don't when worn.

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dentwizz
With your hand as the spark plug and the system as it should you should get a detectable feel even if it isn't enough to arc it. Technically Magnetron firing is rated at 250 RPM(I think). An easy way to check is to clean it all up(like stated) then put a drill adapter in a drill and drive the flywheel nut with the drill. Doesn't need the shroud on since it is not going to be running with fuel or cyl head. It should produce a sizable spark at that point.

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rpickle
Got it put back together and bench started it. Smoked a tiny bit on start-up, but none while running. Broke the main jet off trying to get it out. Used an extra I had laying around. It seems like it will work. Changed the oil in it. Will work on getting the electrics worked out. Will have to make a harness since what was there was severely hacked! But now I know the starter/gen works and the solinoid is good.

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rpickle
Yeah, I am happy! Someday, when time isn't so unavailable, I would like to get these heaps and make them like new again. I am always in awe of the folks that do those jobs on here. Right now, it is just important to get it usable and useful.

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D-17_Dave
The Magnetron ign. needs 250-300 rpm to trigger the secondery to fire. The coil will still generate a field voltage but if it doesn't "trigger" it won't fire. I would pay close attention to the rod journal wear as it looks like the piston may be smacking the cyl. head. It has an imprint of the head at the edge of the combustion chamber. I have had several 16HP engines that had broken rings. If you hear ANY extra noises I'd recomend tearing deeper into it to avoid possibly ruining something else.

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rpickle
Thanks Dave. It is the quietest 16 that I have owned yet, not that I have owned a bunch.... No knocking or rattling at any throttle setting. Time will tell. If it gives up the ghost, then I'll most likely swap in a newer engine of some sort. Hec, that may be the next time I fire it up or another 30 years from now:)

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Ken
Nice too hear that you got it up and running. I love the 16 Briggs that is in my 7016. I'm getting fairly excited and hoping that we get a regular old fashioned New England snow storm sometime soon. (So long as the power don't go out for another week!)

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rpickle
Well, I put it all back together and actually tried the tiller out! Not too shabby. I have one question though. Where do I connect the kill wire? I didn't see a loose wire around the coil and since t doesn't have points, I'm not too sure where it would be.

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RayS
Does it have one small black wire coming out from behind the flywheel cover? If so hook that to your kill wire. Just make sure it is the kill wire that you hook to the black wire and not a 12 volt source or you will ruin the magneto.

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RayS
In your 7th picture down you are missing the insulator stud - bolt that the wire attaches to. There should be a small wire coming from the coil to the insulator and then one or two from the insulator out of the flywheel cover. You can get by with one.






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