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Snow Cab Build....Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Finished


D10-Allis

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Thanks to Perry for taking time to forward some dimensions for the Cab, also the online manuals are a great help. Project uses 3/4" conduit, 10 0z. duckbill canvas, -18 degree 20 gauge Cold crack window vinyl misc. 1/4", nuts and bolts snaps that I blasted and painted to match.













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WOW! that turned out great. you did a great job with the cruddy measurements and pics i sent :D . i like the rear window dOd. now lets see some more pics of that fine lookin cheby truck ya got hiding in the background 8D
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Wow Cool!! Wish I had known someone was going to try a reproduction, I have 2 nearly complete frames that need help plus a complete one that needs new pieces too.:O I gotta keep watching this one:D
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i have another summer cab frame with no top. i have a local guy that buys parts from me. he has a heck of nice upholstery shop at his house. hope to have him make and match my other summer cab top.
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The sewing was done by Fleetwood Deluxe, I was the guy with the foot on the pedal. About five years ago I got the sewing machine from the Oldtimer across the street for free. I went to a Canvas shop and they wanted $200-500 or more just for Labor, I had canvas and window vinyl already, so I thoght I would give it a try. I don't have any digital pictures of the Truck but see what I can do.
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really nice looking sewing machine. i think we found our guy to start remanufacturing snow cabs for us....LOL . i can send ya one if you need more practice :D my local guy here said around $200 to do mine. witch i thought was a really good deal, and he was going to supply the material. he has a stack of material he wants to get rid of and it's allmost a perfect color match to a simplicity cab. i got my 67 cab from ray so that old one just got tucked away for now. my good buddy's grandma & grandpa use to do upholstery out of thier barn. sold everything due to age. we still give them small stuff to do just to keep them busy. gramp's keeps eye balling my Allis seats and wants to get ahold of one to redo for me sm01. he hooked me up last year with this seat
[img]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/SABRE002.jpg[/img]
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Nicesm01 The fabric on frame reminds me of when I worked restoring old Stearman biplanes. That would look pretty good with some coats of Butyrate or laquer dope to finish it off;)
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Great job! I envy people with that much talent! Document this build real good and it should be saved as an article here for future reference! Keep up the great work!
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Perry the seat looks great, turn Gramps loose on another one! Perry sent the Pictures and measurements on the 11th of Oct. so thats when I started scratching my head, it's not an exact match I took 4 inches off the front vertical pipes and changed the shape of the back window. I want to make at least 1 working door to get in and out, if it works good I'll make two. (How does the original one work, do you flip hole cab up towards the back?) Seems like with the Lift the Dot Fasteners (or snaps) that would be the only way to get in.sm00
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Jeff, I just got mine, never saw one before. I have not mounted mine yet but it sure looks like the whole cab flips up and back to get in :O:O
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quote:
Originally posted by rokon2813
sure looks like the whole cab flips up and back to get in :O:O
that was allways my guess to. but what about the front foot rest bolted down ?. like to see how one works. member fastpaul got a NOS one awhile back.
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Mine doesn't have any foot rest brackets I don't think. It also has padding around the front bar to rest on the hood. I'll try to set it on a tractor tomorrow and see how it works.
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From simple tractors; WINTER CAB (conversion kit) Converts summer cab to protect you from icy winter winds, snow and cold. Clear vinyl plastic windows in curtains on front, two sides, and rear for 360° visibility. Dark cloth on front windshield cuts blinding glare off hood, prevents snow from entering cab. Side curtain can be removed independently. Cab can be pivoted on rear support for easy access to controls and engine. (Mfg. No. 282)
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http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8aqKYrE3Cvh5kbp796Dq Looks like all three pipes bolt together with one bolt and nut, (with a crosshole on the end), slip bolt end thru the footbracket and insert spring clip thru crosshole?.....I think I would like a door on hinges. rokon2813 we need pics.sm01
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Okay, here we go. Mine has no foot rest brackets (missing I think) As is, the clutch pedal has to have an inch or so cut off. Also, if your fenders are not perfectly straight up, it will not clear the fenders going down. Perhaps mine has been squeezed together with age, but it would definitely not fit past a simplicity with the wider seat pan. If you set the front frame down on the hood, the lift lever will go through the windshield. And the fabric is to close to the muffler IMO If you raise the front about 4 inches, about where I think the foot rest brackets would be, it still goes through the windshield. If you raise the front 11 inches, the clutch pedal will work, as it is below the frame, however you lose the protection around your feet, and the lift lever will go through the lower front fabric. And your rear frame will stay above the fenders. So there you lose the protection around your legs too. If you need to unsnap a side to get in, on mine you have to unsnap the roof and windshield too, then how do you snap it back on once your inside??? It does flip up easily for access, however the seat pan only lifts as high as you see.






















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