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perry

landlord and filled tires

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perry
i am tossing around what tire setup to use on the 2010 landlord this year for snow plowing. i do some hardcore plowing and sometimes takes me 2days to do the driveway. should actually be using a plow truck. for years i have been using 22-7.5 tires, 22lb per side sim weights and rear stinger with donut. and my 220lb fat butt. i really like the 7.5 tires. the landlord plows great and seems to be my fastest one out of the herd. i picked up a set of 22x7.5 fluid filled tires. i am tossing around using them this year but don't want to break anything. so what are you guy's running for weight ?. you think the landlord can handle 80lb loaded tires, 22lb weights, the stinger, snow cab and me ?. i dont know, maybe i'm just being a worry wart :D. i know it's good to have some tire slippage and would hate to break the'ol girl.

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osenga
Perry the fluid in the tires and slim weight won't hurt anything . Ya it is weight to grab in whatever you get into . And it not like it is putting that weight to your axle . I have ran 100lbs per tire and I don't know how much I had off the rear of mine but I say I was close to 350 lbs then 215 more when I got on and never had any problems at all Just my 2 cents worth here

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Willy
Perry The loaded tires are unsprung weight should be a better option hanging weight your tractor. with fluid in your tire if you hit something that stop you the fluid just gos around in the tire with less stress on key ways etc. With weights you have kinetic energy trying to drive you forward. I use loaded tires on my plow tractor and only use chains when I have to depending on how much and how wet the snow is. My plowing is all pretty level and that helps.

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HubbardRA
Wheel weights and loaded tires do not put bending loads on the rear axle and are not as hard on bearings. They do, however, put more load on the right side tube that goes from the tranny to the diff. When you run wheel weights and loaded tires it is a must that you be easy on the clutch. If you release the clutch hard and the wheels spin, the load is released, but when you have loaded tires and wheel weights, the wheel is unlikely to spin and so all of the force gets transmitted through the tube to the diff. This is a major reason that tubes crack and the pins shear off between the right hub and gear. Myself, I do not run wheel weights or loaded tires. I hang weight on the chassis when I need it and then remove it when not needed. I do not carry any excess weight that is not necessary. There is no single solution to all work situations. I do what is necessary depending on the circumstances.

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perry
quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
When you run wheel weights and loaded tires it is a must that you be easy on the clutch. If you release the clutch hard and the wheels spin, the load is released, but when you have loaded tires and wheel weights, the wheel is unlikely to spin and so all of the force gets transmitted through the tube to the diff. This is a major reason that tubes crack and the pins shear off between the right hub and gear.
thats what i am afraid of that darn tube. i think ill put a 1 5/8 exhaust clamp on the tube this year to help prevent a crack. got that info from another member. when i am plowing it's 3rd gear, full throttle and all out war with the snow :D i guess i am going to run the loaded tires with 4 link ice spiked chains and no wheel weights, see how it go's. ill change back to my original unloaded tires, 2 link chains and wheel weight setup if i dont like the way it feels.

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