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a5t1

Help me resurrect my sunstar

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a5t1
I just picked up this sunstar as a non-runner. 20HP Magnum with a 60" deck. The owner said it must need rings because it burned a lot of oil, was shut down and has sat ever since... First issue seems to be the solenoid: I can jump the solenoid and get the engine to turn over but when I turn the key nothing happens. I checked resistance and got 0 between the two large posts and 0 between the small and large posts. I also thought that this solenoid wasn't supposed to be grounded on the base but mine is...I looked up the part number and ordered one from a website (Still looking for a good parts source on the east coast..fast shipping, etc) Next issue is fuel delivery, I can get the tractor to start by pouring gas down the carb but wasn't getting any fuel on it's own. When I pulled the top of the fuel pump off this is what I saw: Hmmm, surprised it runs as smooth as it does when I bypass the pump...anyways. What is the best route to take on this? I cleaned it all up last night and put it back together but still don't get any fuel from the pump (line is clear, tank is plastic and I put fuel in the tank). Do I just suck it up and spend the $60!?!?!? for a replacement manual fuel pump or should I get a low pressure one from the parts store which is around 40? Last question for now, the engine is covered in oil...it's a complete mess. Could this be a blocked breather? I did a compression check last night and saw 80 in one and 75 psi in the other cylinder...horrible? Okay? (Gauge is from HF so accuracy may be questionable) When the motor ran it sounded really smooth and didn't smoke as much as I thought it would if the rings were bad...thoughts?

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a5t1
I jumped from the pos terminal of the batt. to the post connected to the starter on the solenoid. I wanted to see if the engine would even turn over...The safety switches on the seat are operating correctly (hence the removed seat) and applying ground and pos to the solenoid with nothing attached doesn't do anything...with an open resistance I think the coil is shot on the solenoid. The fuel pump is going to get replaced with an electric, low pressure version. I'll plumb two tees into the lines so if there is any excess pressure it will feed back to the tank.... BTW, I think my entire B10 collection is going up for sale (2 snowblowers, 2 mower decks, 1 cart, 1 tiller and the B10)...

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Brettw
The breather assembly may be the old "mushroom" type valve, and may be shot. The new replacment is a reed type valve. About $16 at the Simplicity delaership I deal with. Well worth the cost to properly and more or less permanently repair breather valve issues.

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country
Compression doesn't sound too great, but I think will run. I ran a Kohler KT series I for years with around 70 - 75 psi compression and ran fine, just obviously not as much power as with better compression.

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comet66
Welcome Aric. Oil problem could be breather, or one of the main seals. There is a read valve for the breather and a small sponge type filter both located beneath the valley cover. You're gonna love your Sunstar.

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B10Dave
Aric; when you checked compression did you have the carb throttle plate blocked in the wide open position? If not it might not be able to suck in a full charge of air on the intake stroke; therefor not enough air to compress to give accurate reading. Also did you try it hot and cold? You should be able to gravity feed fuel to warm it up for the test. Good luck with your project and welcome to the site. Dave.dOd

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a5t1
I got it running last night with the electric fuel pump, throttled it down to idle and it sounded great; I don't think the the 2-3.5 psi is too much because of the low idle I could achieve..otherwise it would stall and flood out. Anyways, couldn't get it to move in gear...Jack suggests this could be my problem:

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stevenj
The fluid level should be 1" visible in the tube above the fitting that is in the rear axle housing. Add the fluid via the fill tube opening located under the hood between the battery and the hydraulic lift valve. Also, not to overlook the obvious, but make sure the transmission selector lever is not in neutral. That is the lever down by your right foot heel. You should have two levers, one for High-N-Low selection and the other to engage the locking differential.

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a5t1
Thanks for the response, the fluid in that tube is barely visible..there is some shadowing in the picture that made it look more full than it is. I'll add the Type F fluid tonight and make sure I'm not in neutral! :)

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RayS
quote:
Originally posted by a5t1
Filled it last night rode it around the yard...next project is finishing the wiring for the fuel pump and locating tins for the side of the motor. Will the motor overheat without the black tins?
Yes.

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a5t1
I cleaned up and ran the sunstar a bit this weekend. It has a serious oil leak in the front of the tractor, behind the PTO assembly. So wouldn't that be the rear of the engine? Anyhow, I took the front PTO off and can see the oil seal, what is the best way to pull it out? Will lighly tapping the replacement in be okay? (Probably use PVC as a "press" or something to help seat the seal...any insight would be appreciated. (Anyone have a part number on the seal? I think it's 25 032 06-S thanks,

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RayS
Yes, that is consider the rear of engine. Flywheel side is the front. Below is a link to a guy that just replaced the same seal and a method of removal is in that link. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=119065&SearchTerms=screws

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