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Went and dug out a steering arm from a B-10, as the keyway is loose on the B-112, put it on the B-112, went out to blow snow, steering locked to right at will and pretty much went whichever way it choose. Felt stumped, go to looking at it tonight only to learn the keyway in the B-10 is cut a lot different then in the B-112 in relation to the arm, I'll guess 30 degrees or so. I Ass-u-med they were all the same and never really looked when installing. Also found a fix for spindle shafts that are worn where they ride in the bushing. I put new bushings in a year or so ago and it didn't fix much as the shaft is about .005-.008 under 3/4 from wear. Instead of removing the old ones I drove them in the depth of the new ones so now have twice the surface area and some on full size shaft. Hope it'll outlast me.
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X2 on the double bushing trick;) I used to take them all the way out and put new in but then it occurred to me to do that trick, plus an easy way to remove the bottom one(since usually the bottom one is the worn one) is to hit the old top one downward til it knocks the old bottom one out, then install the new bottom one upward when its all movable. Otherwise hitting the bottom one upward can take a bit to break it free initially.
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I KIND of did the same thing on my HB-112. I doubled them with new bushings. 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom. I made a special steel drive pin the right length to drive the bushings in to the right depth, without using a bushing to push with. Along with the roller thrust bearings mod under it, it works sweet now.
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That's the way did mine, double on top and bottom as the shaft was pitted and undersize on both ends. Found my 13/16x3/8's socket tapped the old ones in just fine. When I got close just checked for depth often, though I don't really think a small gap between the bushings would hurt anything.
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