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ngale65

3112H restoration started, God help me

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ngale65
Well here are a few pics of my original 3112H. luckily i have all the books and parts break down, definitely make my evening easy. ordered $350 worth of parts at Jack small engine. simplicity still offered about 20 of 25 parts i was looking for. My daughter drove her in the garage for the last time last night and this morning my toolbox attacked. I tagged and bagged and photographed the heck out of stuff. luckily i have a hb212 for reference and another 3112v for parts. Anyway figured if i post picks weekly it will keep me motivated. hope to have it done in a couple months. a few questions i have already ** -anyone have a automotive paint code for the colors? -where do you get the correct hood bolts? -steering eccentric? i remember someone talking about these at some point who makes one part number is 157253 in the simplicity book -other issue i have is rear axle is locked in posi mode? bad differential? as always and help and or advice is always appreciated.






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ngale65
i did see powerking_one had a page on the spindle mod using Torrington bearings. that seemed like a good idea. i case someone hasnt read it here is the link, hopefully it works. i also figured going to the auto parts store would be cheaper than simplicity for timken bearings for the front wheels. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/portal_External.asp?LinkID=147&LinkName=Front%20Axle%20&%20Spindle%20Upgrades&CatID=42&CatTitle=Front&URL=

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Talntedmrgreen
Sounds like a great project! That looks like a nice machine to start with, can't wait to see it dolled up ;) Once you get them apart, you have a lot of incentive to keep moving, especially in the garage, in the winter! I'll be watchin! Allis HB112 had made up the eccentric pins. I used one in my latest resto. He was also very helpful, and I copied his complete steering rebuild here: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=115714&SearchTerms=steering+rebuild

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dentwizz
Looks good enough for cosmetically before to just clean it up good and put it back together with some touchups and overhaul|) The diff probably just needs to be rebuilt. Usually when they are locked it's just a matter of alignment of spacers/collars. When they are worn you wont get any lock(like my B210.). That is the original seat? I have yet to see one that good in person. Nice to see some still around in such good shape.

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ngale65
it is a nice tractor, thought about a good cleaning but i figured have it this far apart, may as well paint it. i have a friend who owns and body shop. so may as well make it real nice. ** couple other questions i came up with -do i keep is simplicity or do i make a hb212? i do like the allis chalmers :) -where do you get the simplicity decals? ive found the ac ones, but not the simplicity. -how do you rebuild the diff?

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ReedS
I found an orange at my local napa that comes incredibly close to the Simplicity orange of that era.
[img]/club2/attach/ReedS/IMG_0551a.jpg[/img]

[img]/club2/attach/ReedS/IMG_0549a.jpg[/img]

[img]/club2/attach/ReedS/IMG_0726a.jpg[/img]
My fleet is entirely made up of of flat hoods! I'd love to have a 3112 or a 3212h with the hydro-lift to round out my Simplicities, but that would mean that I'd have to get rid of my HB112 hydro-lift!:Owah For decals check click-it and stick it, personally I'm rather fond of the orange and white and unless your gonna blast each piece it's hard to bury the original color of anything forever IMO. The diff is likely a case of POism, meaning the the PO probably put one of the axle gears in backwards resulting in a locked diff. Relatively easy to cure but a bit of a process to do correctly. Good luck!

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Talntedmrgreen
Yeah, those H's and HB's with hydrolift are king of the footdraggers, if you ask me. What a great working machine. My 3212H is my first hydro, and I couldn't be happier with it's manners. It's not nearly as nice as Nathan's, but works so well, I can't bear to take it out of service!

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HubbardRA
Steve, a foot-dragger does not have runningboards. Nathan, a locked differential on that vintage tractor probably means that someone has had the diff apart and put too many spacer washers behind the gear that drives the left rear wheel. If it is spaced out too far, it will mesh with both sets of spider gears in the diff and lock the diff up. It should only mesh with the spiders for the left side drive. If I remember correctly, there should be only one washer behind that gear.

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Talntedmrgreen
Nathan...I'd be curious how your blaster does. I've worked with two guys now, and seems I got VERY different results. First guy said not to worry about grease or grime or decals...bring it as it is and don't waste time cleaning it, the second guy wanted all that stuff gone. I gave a set of rims to the second guy, and he all but blasted through them. The first guy went over my parts with me, and where stuff was thin, or rusted, he was VERY delicate and avoided blasting away what good metal was left. To top it off, the first guy was half the cost of the second. It made it quick and easy to get clean metal, but I'm also seeing places where I won't risk the wear on my steel. On the large surfaces like you have shown, it is nice to start with a clean smooth surface vs trying to paint and hide wire brush swirls etc in the underlying paint or steel. Looks like you're making some great progress.

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ngale65
josh, now you have me worried. lol. this place has a good reputation so i hope they dont screw it up. i washed all my parts before i took them there just because it seemed like a good idea and i was worried they may bitch if not degrease. i should hve them back next week some time, ill let you guys know.

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Steve72
It all depends on the media they use in the blaster. We actually teach guys how to use this machine in our tool repair courses. Ask the guy not to use anything more coarse or harder than glass beads. Alum shot can be very abrasive but gets everything off. I like to use plastic media on side panels and other thin parts. Walnut shells work OK also. Some use carbon media (black sandy looking stuff) and it too is real abrasive. I like to remove heavy grease first only if parts are put inside a cabinet to keep clogs down.

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ngale65
well i got a big today from jacks small engines. many bushings, washers, bearings, hardware, ext. i must say very nice quality parts. i will definitely be using them for parts i may need. cheaper that the local dealer and the same parts, plus it comes right to my door. Talked to the sandblaster, should have my parts back by the end of the week, found out they use sand so it wont be to aggressive, they showed me some other things the same gauge, looked good. oh and another fun point. the rubber bushing for the steering wheel on a hb212 and other b series is still available thru jacks and is just like the original, i was pleasantly surprised.

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Talntedmrgreen
Sounding good! The guy I prefer used sand...Im assuming, based on the bit that came out of my loader arms. No idea what the other guy used. You should be in good shape. Mine turned out excellent. Steve, great info....sounds like you're the guy to direct some body questions to? =]

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Steve72
Absolutely Josh! I love this site and guys who still like working with their hands and keeping old things in new shape. Inspiring work in these threads!! I wish my dad had lived long enough to see the impact the internet has had on our ability to research old engines, tractors etc...pretty sweet.

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Chris727
I always clean/degrease parts thoroughly prior to blasting. If I was using my own equipment it would take all day to blast off a decal and then you're leaving adhesive residue buried in the metal. If you have something where the metal is thin, glass beads at a lower PSI will usually work well for cleaning it up.

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GLPointon
Nice job so far Nate... dOd keep us posted Was nice to meet you and thanks again for delivering the tractor/parts to my place. If you dont mind I would like to know what it cost for the sandblasting work done? I've always done it the elbow grease way...but thats gettin old (or I am)... And is that a car lift in your garage? Note to above conversation: at work they use ground corn cobbs to sandblast crud off big high voltagetransformers/glass insulators...works good but gentel. I know it can be bought by the bag if anyone is interested. pi

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ngale65
They charged $150 to sandblast everything. did a nice job. I would like to get a cabinet but no room right now. and sand is getting expensive if you cant reuse it so that kills the idea of doing it in the yard.

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