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Help with B10 Steering


Mike-GA

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I have alot of play/slop in the steering on my B10. I have removed the panels and there is no noticible wear in the steering gears. When I turn the steering wheel there is imediate movement to the gears but not the tires/wheels. Any ideas?
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I've been told that a little slop is by design to allow for the wheels to hit or get stuck and not jerk the steering wheel out of your hands. If I hold my wheel with the middle bar at 12 o'clock I have maybe 1" of slop in either direction before the wheels start to turn. For me this is acceptable and again from what I have learned on this forum by design. Anything more than that there may be a problem in the gears. Have you greased the gears thru the grease zerk? tightened everything up?
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On page 18 of the manual below in the link it describes how to adjust. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCyEN8cuI0rE3CG.5kbp796Dq
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Each shaft(there are two) is held by a 3-bolt bearing block. To tighten, loosen all the 6 bolts and push them together. Tighten. That is the limit to the adjustment without replacing parts. The ball joints are readily replaced as well with ball joints or Heim-joints. I prefer Heims due to greasability and tighter clearances.
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Mike, there are 6 spots of wear slop on these older tractors beside the gears. The steering arms that mount on the bottom of the steering gear and the one on the spindle shaft of the left front tire are keyed and locked on with set screws, quite often loose. The tie rod that connects them has 2 adjustable ball joints, often an easy slop reduction gain. The bolts and bushings of the drag link are normally beat out if the tractors been used hard. The bushing in the spindles can also be worn enough to give lack of control. IMO, the weakest point of these tractors.
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You may want to check the axle bracket bolts. These are located behind the front axle. These often come lose and the axle will pivot creating a lot of pay.
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As another tip mentioned above, if the output arms on the outside of the chassis become loose and allow the keyed shafts to turn you may want to substitute the bolts like I did recently. The set screws with the square heads were hard to get torqued down due to the size and being square(at least for my tooling), so I went to the hardware store and got Grade-8 bolts of the same threading and torqued it down with a socket wrench. Hasn't come loose since.;)
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Make sure the shaft coming out of the bottom of the steering box (BH on pg.18) is tight as they can loosen and wear the driven gear (BJ. That gear can be a problem area, and a little welding, Loctite, or JB weld will help that. I made new eccentric pins, but they are gone. Bushings are still readily available.
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Not to hijack this thread but under LUBRICATION, Fig 4 what is the short piece of rond bar welded to the axle in a vertical position for?
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