Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
a5t1

Sunstar front PTO stalls engine

Recommended Posts

a5t1
Gents, Can't figure this one out. Have a 1987 sunstar and just replaced the breather and rear oil seal (front of tractor). Thing I've sorted out the oil spewing from the engine but the front PTO has me puzzled: The tractor runs great, no issues. If I engage the front PTO (with 60" deck and at 3/4 or full throttle) the blades spin up and work great, for about 20 seconds or so and then the engine begins to stall. If I disengage the PTO the engine will recover and run normal. If I leave the PTO engaged the engine dies. I disconnected the drive shaft from the deck to the PTO and it behaves the same way so the deck is not the issue. Could this be a bad bearing seized up on the clutch assembly or something else? Anyone have NAPA part numbers for the bearings? I'm asking this before I break out the angle grinder and grind off the ears that hold the bearings in place....please help?!? Am I left with spending $200 on a new clutch assembly? :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Al
Hi, Sounds like you have a bad bearing in the clutch. These brgs are not readily available. There was a period that the clutches were failing and the coils were shorting out and taking the engines out. The coil shorts to the case where it is bedded and the shortest ground path becomes the path through the clutch coil housing through the main bearings to the block. This works like an EDM (Electric Discharge Milling Machine) and in a couple or three hours the block is junk. We put $2400.00 in a Kubota diesel in a Grasshopper due to this problem. I heard Simplicity paid for 50 Legacy Diesel engines due to this problem. We were looking into this problem at the time we were looking into buying clutches for repower kits. In working with Mike at Simplicity, (now deceased) he suggested we open the bearings and add hi-temp grease. It was unknown if the bearings were failing and the heat causing the potted coils to fail or the coils were failing and the bearings were failing. Anyway we replaced some low hour Vangard engines that were clutch destroyed. From what information I have gathered, I believe the problem centered around the change when the clutch company went from a snap ring retained bearing to a bearing with a 3 point stake. After months of searching, the lube people got involved and determined that the lube wasn't the problem, but they determined the 3 point stake caused distortion in the outer race and made it like a triangle. The fix (as I have heard) was to go to a 12 point stake on the bearing. Our clutch failures have vanished with this fix. MY POINT IS: Do you want to replace this bearing if it is STAKED in and risk destroying an engine or is a new clutch a cheaper route? Can you after pressing it out and pressing a new bearing in "RESTAKE" it so it is not distorted????. I WANT TO POINT OUT THAT THIS IS WHAT I HAVE GATHERED IN MY RESEARCH ON THE CLUTCH PROBLEM AND I AM IN NO WAY CRITICIZING ANY CLUTCH INDIVIDUAL CLUTCH COMPANY!! Keep in mind we are only talking about a couple of thousands of an inch. This is not applicable if you have an M engine with the clutch coil bolted solid to the engine. Al Eden

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sammiefish
I would seem to take the comments as well as my opinion as ... find a new clutch... Ill bet you can find a brand new one that would work great.... since you are going to the effort of fixing her up... id think it would be well worth it to have the reliability and the piece of mind... I would be very hesitant to get into any sort of $ on a used clutch either... cheap is one thing but the prices that you see some wanting for these things is nuts... I woudl say if you look you could probably find a new one 200 or less... and since you probably dont need to mow this winter you have a few months to look around...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sammiefish
well, the simplicity # for the 20Hp Kohler is 1686737SM and the price is about $380 the rotor armature only is PN# 1685490 at $280 I would start with the size of the crank shaft and the pulley size and find one to fit that way... I imagine that must be a 1 1/8" crank shaft...??? someone will chime in here with exactly what you are looking for... : )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PeppyDan
A few years ago I replaced the "clutch bearing only" in a magnum20 Sunstar. I looked in my file but could not find a bill for it...my brother got the bearing from a bearing store and probably never gave me the bill, just the cost:( You have nothing to lose on the old clutch by trying to find a new bearing and as I understand from Al's post the distortion would not pretain to your clutch. Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Al
Hi, You should be able to replace the bearing in that clutch OK. The problem ones were the ones that "float free" on the crankshaft. The one you have the field bolts directly to the block, so there is no path for a shorted coil to run through the crankshaft. It is the newer floating clutches. Al Eden

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • dav-1
    • MMartineau44
    • Brettw
    • lt-scir
    • Talntedmrgreen
    • RAC
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. ZippoVarga
      ZippoVarga
      (54 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
    • tribswede

      tribswede  »  goatfarmer

      ISO a deck for a 6516 H and all the connecting hardware any ideas on where to start?
       
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×