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Steve72

HB212 Snow Cab Heater

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Steve72
Hi Guys---I am in the design stages of building a snow cab and wondering: How "air-tight" to try and make it (thinking of fabbing a floor to keep out the big breezes--or is that foolish. Also wondering how many of you have incorported a "cab heater" and how it works for you. I saw this one online and wondering if the HB gen/starter would have enough power to keep the battery up. I plan on making this with glass window and alum. panels vs. canvas or vinyle Thanks for any ideas!


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PhanDad
I'm thinking the S/G max output is 15 amps, the smallest heater draws 30 amps (high position I assume). Even on "low" I would think you would fry your S/G with constant use. Based on my experience, I don't think you'll need a heater. Once underway for a while, I'm plenty warm in my cab from the engine heat. I'm in the Phila area, so the temperatures are usually in the 20's or low 30's when I'm blowing snow. Unless you're in a very cold area, I'd give it a try without a heater first.

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Zach
what if you got an ac 110 volt generator attachment off the back and had small electric space heater or a hair dryer in the cab with you that was powered off the back pto driven generator? now that would warm you up in a hurry! 8D

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comet66
Coming into Michigan winter #20 with my soft cab and there have only been a couple of times I found it to be very cold in my cab. With the Sunstar I get no engine heat at all, and only on the windiest days with draft coming in around the bottom has it been uncomfortable. Then only on my feet. The cab blocks the cold air from getting to the operator and it is surprisingly comfortable. It's not heated of course, but it is also not cold. Like PhanDad says, "give it a try without first"

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OrangeMetalGuy
S/G can't support it. I would try to seal up as many air openings as possible, that's 90% of the battle. Then, if you are out for a long time, get some of those foot and hand warmers HomeDepot sells cheap.

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Steve72
I hear what you guys are saying and it makes sense to try it first without the heater. But Zach you and I are thinking alike. I have a 900 watt gen from Harbor Freight (90 bucks!) that will run all day on a cup of gas. I was going to rig up a heavy box (for more weight) on the back end and just go with something 110 volts and really heat things up. We don't have that cold of winters here in OH but the wife likes to plow now and then and she gets cold quick so I thought I could make it more comfortable for her---and me!

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dave7016
Steve worry about getting a cab 1st. I have a soft sider and it is warm. On the coldest days...jeans, shirt, coat (but not a heavy one) thin gloves and hat. When it is 20-30 outside no hat and sometimes a sweatshirt. They stay nice and warm.

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steve-wis
Hey, another Steve! Welcome to the club! I built a cab for my tractor last year. Vinyl sides and windows, angle iron frame. My advice is to not put a floor in unless you plan to heat it really well. The problem will be condensation on the windows from your body heat. I find with mine open on the bottom and no heater that I am plenty warm after about 10 minutes even here in our Wisconsin winters. Good luck with your project, any cab is way better than no cab! Steve

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comet66
quote:
Originally posted by Steve72
We don't have that cold of winters here in OH but the wife likes to plow now and then and she gets cold quick so I thought I could make it more comfortable for her!
Perhaps you should give this a little more thought. Is this really what you want? Just sayin'

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Steve72
Ha! Good point Comet!---I make it too nice and she'll want to do all the plowing!! Whether or not to try and fab a floor was what I was really concerned with--as I think that would be the most difficult part of it. I had no idea that body heat and some radiated engine heat would keep you that warm with a wide open floor. I like the idea of plowing in sweatshirt and jeans vs. a snowsuit! Great info!

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Blazerjeepman3
I have a 3212H with a cab we are building with steel /aluminun frame, skinned with .040 aluminum and Lexan in the doors and back panels. The front windshield is from an old Curtis Steel Cab with a good Bousch windshield wiper motor.To build an enclosed floorpan I choose to make it a dedicated snowblower tractor. There fore the center PTO had to go . I fabricated some support brackets, attached them to side plates that bolt to BGB. Used 1.50 x .375 flat bar across the width of the tractor with extra 1 in on each side to extend beyond the rear tires. This serve as the anchor point for rear of the floor pan. Up front the footrest were removed and suport brackets extend down, to a point where another cross piece is attached same size and width as the rear. The Pan is made of 090 alum with skid plates attached for grip. Send me a pm and I will send you some pictures .There is a lot more I can show you about this project. This cab will be pretty tight with vents to take care of moisture

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locknut
Only one rule if you're going to heat with DC current-go big or stay home.Been using a DC Thermal as pictured above for over 2 yrs now.The model I used is a 24V-35amp and have upgraded to their duct-type heater 24V-45amp-1080watt version.Just finished the install and it is working great. http://dcthermal.com/catalog/sd12-5000-ducted-heater I use this on my other orange tractor with a custom cab I built for it. The heater is powered by a 70amp 24V Delco 1-wire driven off the center PTO.The battery pack is 2 small L&G batts mounted off to the right side of the alternator rack.For monitoring the setup I mounted a Coleman-Air volt/amp meter flush in the screen shroud under the dash(sealed with truck bed coating). Added some pics tonite of the setup and did a short video.It's not the best but you can hear the governor kick in on the CH20 Kohler. I wish we would get some snow so I could try this new heat system and the new v-blade setup. http://s498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/GR2000%20Cab%20Project/ This heater is a 2-vent version,one for defrost and one for my left foot which was always cold due to no movement,I guess. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/GR2000%20Cab%20Project/002.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/GR2000%20Cab%20Project/004.jpg[/IMG]

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Steve72
Wow---good stuff!! I'd love to see more shots of your cab Locknut...not sure what pm means. Blazer did you build the cab in the photos? Looks professional--as in fiberglass!! Super nice set up. Even got a vent for you left foot!! This kind of stuff gets me going--and usually end up building something I don;t really need--but want!!

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locknut
quote:
Originally posted by Steve72
Wow---good stuff!! I'd love to see more shots of your cab Locknut...not sure what pm means. Blazer did you build the cab in the photos? Looks professional--as in fiberglass!! Super nice set up. Even got a vent for you left foot!! This kind of stuff gets me going--and usually end up building something I don;t really need--but want!!
PM means private message.All the pics are on the photobucket link.Complete build thread at mtf. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=104059 This type of setup might work on a footdragger using the mid PTO to drive the alternator and mount a couple of small 12V batts on the back,wired in series. The previous heater is in for repairs(the fan stuck)and should have it back next week.Also have 2 extra 24V alts,a 40 and a 50amp.Probably fix somebody up fairly cheap if they wanna go at it.

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JohnMBerst
With my soft cab, found most the cold / snow came in from the bottom, between door and edge of running board. Found some rubber backed carpeting, and have cut so it fits around the cab mounting brackets, and extends out to the door. Stuff is rather firm, and will see if this continues to help with the warmth. But I do like that heater! Did add a fan for the front window to help keep it clear last year. Worked well.

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Blazerjeepman3
Steve , I did not build that one,and it does look nice. The one I'm building has a lot of work done by a friend fabricator who works on race cars.We did some some things by design like moving the battery to rear of tractor to make space for 3 gallon aluminum gas tank, a new design for the hood since cab windshield extends about halfway over the original hood.The new hood will be hinged from the base of the shield, The other half which is inside the cab will be a rearranged instrument panel with amp.,hour meter, switch for overhead running lights front and rear,and and head lights and electric power shoot . I am running a deep cycle yellow top Optima battery which handles the load. The starter generator even with 15 amp output is doing fine . This tractor will see some work and not all lights will be run at one time. We are working on a plug receptacle for charging the battery mounted on the ouside of the cab much like an electric car. This project so far has not being cheap but more of seeing what I can do to make it different from anything else

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locknut
Blazerjeepman3 (Larry) sent me some pics of his fantastic cab project.Here's one,and I have others at the p-bucket link. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/cabpictures001.jpg[/IMG] http://s498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/

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Steve72
Thanks Locknut---I have checked out your shots and will get some great ideas off them!--Blazerman I would love to see more pics of your build. My HB212 frame looks like yours (but I'm not an expert on the different tractor styles)and I'd like to see how you fabbed the floor. I also like the angled back frame. If you have to get under the seat pan for anything will you have to remove the cab completely? This is another thing I was wondering about.

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Blazerjeepman3
Steve , I believe the hb212 is the same frame as my 3212H. The frame is actually outside the seat pan so you can raise it without interference, to check anything underneath. The angle back frame is attached to the bottom hitch pin area and the top uses the same anchor point as the hinges for the seat pan. It is very strong and is used to carry the battery and also I am building a tool box for both side of the battery. One thing about the cab is that it is held in place with 10 bolts so it can be lifted off the tractor. The cab windshield actually sits up on a frame so the hood can be slid out and removed. The idea in my design was to have a fully enclosed cab and not interfer with any original function of the tractor.The floor pan area carrys a lot of weight also as you can see in the photos. I forgot to mention that the floor pan stays on the tractor when cab is removed. It is build actually so the entire unit can be removed by having certain parts bolted together. I will try to get so photos posted.Any questions you have I will be glad to help

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Blazerjeepman3
Th floor pan was built with 2.75" drop which is tapered down on all 4 sides . This was done to get more space between the floor and bottom of frame nessary for other parts of the project that I will discuss later. It is also more comfortable extra leg room and feels right for using the brake /clutch pedal

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