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PTO problems


Eugene

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Hi I'm new here and was wondering if anyone had this problem. I have a 71 Landlord 3410h and I hooked up my 36" snow blower and it seem my PTO is slipping bad... i tried adjusting it like the instructions say, but no matter how far I adjust it, it still seems to slip. Am I missing something? If I need parts where would I even look? Thanks in advance
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Which PTO are you using? the front PTO on the engine or the mid PTO? Is it the PTO or the belt slipping? If belt is it in good condition and routed properly? Pictures are always helpful... If your front PTO is slipping and you cant adjust it enough to grab it may need the clutch part replaced... Please send more details Welcome sm01
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Sorry, it's the front PTO. The clutch plate doesn't seem to be grabbing the sheave. I dont know where to get a new/used clutch plate cheap, but I do know the part # is 171819. I dont want to put a bunch of money into it because work slowed down. Thanks btw
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You could be out of clutch lining and a fix is to reline your cup with a thin strip of leather. That's what some members have been doing on their mid-pto's and I think you would have the same success. Rod Hubbard could sell you a chunk or give you some advice on what to do.
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Use thin leather. Soft leather is better. Glue it in with contact cement. The one I did had six pieces to make it fit the curve properly. Be sure and dry fit the pieces before applying any glue. Remember that contact cement requires a waiting period after applying the glue but before putting the parts together. Mine is still working great after a year. It has been used to run my chipper/shredder, and is the mid PTO. When Dutch did one several years ago, it was the front PTO, and it also lasted.
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I did a little research last night and that was the only solution I came up with too. I did however run into another problem. I was trying to take off the clutch plate itself and it will not budge. I looked for set screws or bolts and nothing.... I put a puller and a small amount of heat and still nothing.
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Sorry, but I have never had a front clutch on any of my tractors, and can't help you with that problem. The clutch I rebuilt is the cone clutch on the BGB. I have never tried to remove a front clutch.
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No set screw on mine that I can find. Number 4 in the picture the sleeve maybe rusted to the bearing in 5 the sheave. The sleeve may have been on so long that it has rusted it self to the crankshaft. Try some penetrating oil between the crank and sheave apply a little pressure between the block and the back side of the clutch plate.


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Do you see actual movement when you throw the lever? it should move an 1/8th inch, if not then the bearing is rusted onto the sheave, be careful prying against the block and if you use heat on the crank, you might melt the seal, JB blaster or kroil(?) only wd40 is useless, if you can get a gear puller use that just don't bugger up the end bolt hole. Give the penetrants lots of time to work
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Yeah all that stuff came off no problem but the clutch plate itself is stuck on, I even got the key to come out of the crank, but clutch plate #3 in the picture is a no go. BTW yes the sleeve was a little stuck(I think that's why the clutch burned up in the first place). So at this point I think I'm going to remove whats left of the clutch material and just glue it on there, and when I'm done you can bet there's defiantly going to be plenty of anti-seize applied! Thanks everyone for your advice and I will let you know how it goes in a day or so:D
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  • 2 weeks later...
Welcome to the front pto world, I'm just in (dis)assembly stages, never been here before - lol - lots of adventure for this amateur. Took forever to find parts I wanted. So, I get to experience winter mechanix also. But for now, Christmas rules. sm01 I'm mixing a lever from a no-motor parts tractor, a blower from same parts tractor, a pto in a box, and my real tractor gets it all. Also have weights, chains everything ready to go, maybe a softcab later if it fits - just gotta get me out there, with a heater. 8) :D This will be a fairly ambitious project for me; but it's one step at a time. I need a belt too. Congrats on getting yours running. 8D On some of these, there's one really minor difference in install - Kohler or Briggs uses "different mounting hole" for the leverarm-to-fork (that performs (dis)engage). (there's 2 holes)
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