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maxwood

wiring headlights?

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maxwood
Hello , I have a 7119 (1690638) the headlight wiring was melted, so I rewired it . Near the hood hinge point is the plug connection that runs to the toggle switch on the dash. I am not getting any power to the connector.Are there any fuses or fusible links in the wiring? On the parts breakdown it shows a circuit breaker but I have not found It? Any help would be appreciated! Ken In Mi

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Brettw
Or, possibly, I would look closely at the wire itself. Over the years, heat and vibration can cause the wire to become hard and brittle and crack. It is relatively easy to run a new wire, after checking for power at the switch itself.

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maxwood
Hello, I removed the battery and gas tank to get a better look. I may need a new ignition switch, there is lots of corrosion on the terminals. Does the circuit breaker have a reset button? , the tractor starts and runs fine . Ken in Mi

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OrangeMetalGuy
I would get some good contact cleaner and go over the ignition switch. On the male terminals use some emery cloth to shine them up. Contact cleaner on the female connector. I'll second what someone else mentioned, check each wire end to end with a VOM. The circuit breaker is a small silver rectangular box about 1-1/2" inches long with two electrical studs coming out of the bottom. It auto resets, there is no reset button (at least on my 716 and 712). Yours, being a 7119, may be different.

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maxwood
Thank's for all the help, I will check out the wiring and do some cleaning . If I need to replace a wire what gauge wire is recommended for the headlight wiring? Thank's Ken in Mi

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ZippoVarga
You can get away with 16 or 14 gauge, which I believe is what was originally used. Often, the switches go bad if the tractor spent any time stored in the elements. Best way to check your connections is with a Volt Meter as Orange mentioned. You should have power to one of the two poles on the switch. If you don't, then the problem is from that switch to the power source. I'm not sure if your machine routes to the regulators accessory post or to the battery. In either case, if no power to either post on the switch, then I would establish a good positive connection. I don't recommend going directly to the battery, but it won't hurt anything if you do. Then, once you have power to one pole of the switch, flip it on and see if the switch is functional. Again, by using the volt meter. Black to any good ground and the red to the switch poles. Should read what ever the battery is putting out. You can check the lights them selves simply by running a jump wire from the + battery post to the coupling at the hood pivot point. Once you know your lights are working, it's just a matter of tracing back from the lights to the power source until you find power. Be sure to route the new wires so they are clear of any area that rotates or gets hot. Hope this helps! Zippo

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