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larry8200

Kohler Crank Seal Number - resolved

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larry8200
In my 7112H the front crank seal fell out of my K301S Spec. 47718D and I am looking for a generic number from NAPA, Chicago Rawhide, etc. It looks to be a standard automotive style seal. Or the Kohler number for that matter. Thanks

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by BLT
Enter as a guest. http://www.kohlerplus.com/login.asp
I am stuck with dial up, and at 49K that has timed out every time. I'd say hours spent but its more. Thanks though.

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by ssmewing
I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300401705723+&clk_rvr_id=235518961523&item=300401705723
Thanks! Thats the one, dont know if I can cross the Stens numbers or not. Good price to.

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by ssmewing
I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300401705723+&clk_rvr_id=235518961523&item=300401705723
Thanks! Thats the one, dont know if I can cross the Stens numbers or not. Good price to.
You are gpoing to waste more time to save a couple of dollars then its worth. NAPA isn't even that inexpensive here.

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larry8200
Yeh, I have a good relationship and excellent discount from the local Sanels No biggie anyway, set up the BIG TEN to replace the 7112H on "Work Row" LOL will post what I do. sm01

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Brettw
Larry, I also recommend looking for the cause of the blown seal. Check the breather tube, filter etc. When I replaced the front seal on the KT17 it was a failed mushroom valve in the breather assembly that caused the headache. You are fortunate that it is the seal on the front of the tractor and may not require much effort. Mine was on the driveshaft side which required complete removal, sheet metal, flywheel, etc. I would have hated to get it all back together and have it blow the seal again right away. Just a suggestion. Like I say, that and 98 more cents will get you a cup of coffee.

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by Brettw
Larry, I also recommend looking for the cause of the blown seal. Check the breather tube, filter etc. When I replaced the front seal on the KT17 it was a failed mushroom valve in the breather assembly that caused the headache. You are fortunate that it is the seal on the front of the tractor and may not require much effort. Mine was on the driveshaft side which required complete removal, sheet metal, flywheel, etc. I would have hated to get it all back together and have it blow the seal again right away. Just a suggestion. Like I say, that and 98 more cents will get you a cup of coffee.
Pretty funny, really. I have been lookingb for an excuse to replace thia well worn K301, and though it rattles, shakes and rolls, like a diesel (my neighbors think it is LOL) I still dont have enough reason to trash it. Waaahhhhh!!! LOL

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larry8200
The engine needs to be rebuilt, no doulbt about it. But I'm not into K series engines and I'm going to run it till I find a replacement. I have a good working knowledge of old Briggs, a good Briggs parts source (hates Kohler) as well as a lot of used Briggs parts. For better or worse I'm sticking with what I know

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by rokon2813
I can understand running it till you find a replacement, but if its a compression ring, you may blow the new seal out as soon as you start it back up. :O:O
Well, that may be. The engine is running same as always though. I'm thinking maybe I should put the engine up for sale now. A complete running K301S in any condition will bring $200 plus here. Guess I'll put the old seal back in and see if its a loose or tight fit to start with.

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Brettw
I would not suggest JB Weld on a seal. Locktite black gasket sealer / maker is would be my suggestion. Either way, if the issue is that much back pressure, it will likley blow again unless the culprit is located and dealt with.

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larry8200
The local dealer had a seal on the shelf. $8.95 He said since the seal body is plastic, they get old and brittle, crack, and since nothing holds them in but friction they fall out and make a big mess. He said if there has been no change in the way the engine runs, and I didn't run it low on oil (Ididn't) to put the new seal in and not worry about it. The K series do this all the time.


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larry8200
Put the OEM seal in and after it was seated fully in place there was more friction from the seal to crank than from the seal body to block, and the whole seal spins. No getting it back out without destroying it either. Guess I know why the original fell out! :(!:(!:(! Cleaned it up as best I could with laquer thinner then acetone and smeared some JB on it. We'll see

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larry8200
I glued the seal in with JB, and couldn't believe it would hold, so I took and cleaned the old seal and glued it in backwards over the new seal so they are glued together and in place. After 3 hr. run time its still bone dry. Definitely not a pretty repair or one I like but it looks like its going to be fine. Time will tell, thanks for the input!


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