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GLPointon

CraigsList 7116H...always look worse than the pics

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GLPointon
Here's my latest CL buy: A 7116 Hydrostat Trans with Hydraulic lift. Pics online looked good. I picked it up in the rain, after dark, so when I got it home in the shop...this was what I got:








The body metal was not bad, alot of scratches & minor rust but no bad dents, holes,etc... back tires are mis-matched, bad/cracked seat and steering wheel, needs to be rewired.


I dont think this is the original Engine? its 326437 0333-01 I think OEM was 326407 and I know that starter isn't OEM whatta hack job! But I think I can mount a Starter/Gen on it and rewire.


Next is the 42" pink deck. Its missing the adjusting hardware, (bolted solid) sm00 Now the Good News:






The Hydrostat Trans is "sworn to be" in perfect condition. (I will have it started very soon for a trial run) The Hydraulic lift is also in great condition, very little signs of fitting seepage. BGB looks clean and feels tight sm01


Still has the "OEM Belt Sticker" under the hood (only has a little overspray on it) All in all still worth the $ and the drive...I hope. Cant wait to start the Resto on her, I get the engine, wiring, metal & paint sorted out and I'll have my 1st Hydro-Sovereign :D^

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BLT
Engine model and type number were used on 7116 tractor about that era. Starter looks like it was replaced by another. Rubber coupling replaced by steel spacers and disc for driveshaft. Heat shield also appears missing. Tractor is, judging by the sheet metal, about 1978 thru 1985 MY.

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larry8200
I like it. Sovereign hydros are my number one choice, I dont have a 7100 frame with a Briggs though. Lucky You! Merry Christmas! Except for the wheel and engine, looks identical to my 1980 7112H

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CarlH
I have a 7116H with hydraulic lift that is similar to that tractor. It has the steel spacers and the engine appears the same. I would not be surprised if that is pretty much an original tractor. The deck is obviously not as original.

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RayS
That is the correct starter and 326437 is correct as well. The strap towards the front of engine on starter may be home made but is very similar to original. That starter setup is better and cheaper priced than a starter generator. They spin the motor much faster as well and possibly no points either. B series deck with Simplicity spray can orange that always seems to turn pink over time.

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Brettw
Does this tractor have a 1/8" steel rod running across the underside of the hood about half way from the front to the back? I had a 7117 that was the same. No rubber coupler, no baffle around the blower intake, remote hydro filter. I believe this was one of the earliest 7100 series tractors. I would bet 1978 or 79.

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Kent
quote:
Originally posted by RayS
That is the correct starter and 326437 is correct as well. The strap towards the front of engine on starter may be home made but is very similar to original. That starter setup is better and cheaper priced than a starter generator. They spin the motor much faster as well and possibly no points either.
Agree -- the ring gear starters spin the engine much faster, especially in the winter. Also, it has the built-in alternator. So I'm guessing a pic of the opposite side would show it to be a Magnetron with no points to hassle with... No way would I consider converting that engine to a starter-generator...

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GLPointon
Yes Chris it has 2 of the Dealer's stickers. One even has a faded customer # on it, I wonder if they have a database?
quote:
Originally posted by Chris727
Greg, Is that a Milbrandt dealer decal on the back of the tractor? If so that tractor spent part of its life in the St.Louis area.

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GLPointon
Bob what heat shield is missing? engine, trans, exhaust??? If you will, let me know exactly so I can find one before the Resto...Thanks sm01
quote:
Originally posted by BLT
Engine model and type number were used on 7116 tractor about that era. Starter looks like it was replaced by another. Rubber coupling replaced by steel spacers and disc for driveshaft. Heat shield also appears missing. Tractor is, judging by the sheet metal, about 1978 thru 1985 MY.

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GLPointon
Brett it has no steel rod under the hood...was that something you've found, a reinforcement added later or an owner mod.??
quote:
Originally posted by Brettw
Does this tractor have a 1/8" steel rod running across the underside of the hood about half way from the front to the back? I had a 7117 that was the same. No rubber coupler, no baffle around the blower intake, remote hydro filter. I believe this was one of the earliest 7100 series tractors. I would bet 1978 or 79.

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GLPointon
I am Amaized!!! So you guys are saying thats the original engine? I have some questions: 1)I've never seen one with that dipstick, thats OEM? 2)If the starter is OEM why did he have to hack the sheet metal for the bendix to clear? Is that just a bad replacement? 3)There is a "Points Cover" but no wires leading into it. So is it an OEM Magnitron or conversion? If so is flywheel polarity ok? Sorry for the questions but this is new to me. If it were a Kohler it would make more sense, but have never seen a Briggs with this set-up?? Thanks Guys for your help/advice sm01

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by GLPointon
I am Amaized!!! So you guys are saying thats the original engine? I have some questions: 1)I've never seen one with that dipstick, thats OEM? 2)If the starter is OEM why did he have to hack the sheet metal for the bendix to clear? Is that just a bad replacement? 3)There is a "Points Cover" but no wires leading into it. So is it an OEM Magnitron or conversion? If so is flywheel polarity ok? Sorry for the questions but this is new to me. If it were a Kohler it would make more sense, but have never seen a Briggs with this set-up?? Thanks Guys for your help/advice sm01
Repy to questions: 1. Yes, those dipsticks started showing up Briggs supplied on 7100 series tractors. 2. Bulge in sheet metal id for clearance of starter gear. All air cooled engines have a bulge of sorts in blower housing for gear starters. 3. Type 0333 indicates that engine was built with with points and 10 Amp flywheel alternator and rectifier. If there are no points at all, there is only one way to get spark, electronically. It might have a Magnetron or not. You need to remove blower housing to see if flywheel has two red stripes painted on it. If it does, polarity has been changed.

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PhanDad
Greg, The "heat shield" that's missing can be see in these pics of the 7116 I picked up several years ago. It's the tin that covers the space between the engine and frame. I think it's more of a guard than heat shield:




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Chris727
Greg, I don't know what kind of records they keep but here's their site: http://www.lawncaredealers.com/00583/default.asp?ID=508&PageData=156845&P=1 As far as I know they never handled the Simplicity brand and likely just serviced the tractor.

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Brettw
Bill: It was my understanding that the guard you speak of , the half round metal that goes around the drive-shaft at the diameter of the blower intake housing was for 1) keeping heated air from going into the blower 2) a guard to protect against the rotating drive-shaft coupler, and 3) to direct cool air into the blower intake. The heat shield I believe Bob is speaking of is a steel plate that goes on top of the engine and shields the hood from the muffler and heated air coming off of the cooling fins. It somewhat directs it out the front grill. Then again, I could be completely clueless. But it is fun to chime in!8D

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PhanDad
Brett, You're probably correct, the heat shield Bob was talking about is the one that mounts to the top of the engine. I don't have a pic of one, but this is the dwg to make one:


The above dwg was obtained from this site, I just don't remember where. The 7116 has one. Also, there were at least 3 versions of the 7116. Mfg#1690477/8 and mfg #1690569/70 had a longer driveshaft and did not use the rubber coupling. Mfg#1691382 had a shorter driveshaft and used the rubber coupling. The 7116 pic I posted above is a mfg#1691382. And here a couple more pics of the 16 HP Briggs repower of my GTHL that show the "points" location and the other side of the inlet baffle for Greg's benefit:




On a factory Magnatron ignition, where the points were located is a small insulator terminal for the kill wire. I rewired my GTHL and the kill wire from the ignition switch is the red wire running up from the frame to the "kill" terminal. As to the engine top heat shield, I never installed one on the GTHL, it vents the heat both out the from and the top hood holes. With the factory heat shield, all the heat is directed out the front. I figured it was to keep the hood cool, but I haven't noticed any issues. And as to the inlet baffle, I think it's more for safety than directing the source of cooling air. The old FDT tractors with solid bottom frames draw air from above the frame and don't have the chaff issue that the 7100 series have. I thought about installing tin across the bottom of the frame on the GTHL, and removing the factory inlet baffle but haven't done it. I just watch the Briggs inlet screen for blockage.

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RayS


Here is the shield on top. I agree with Bill about the inlet baffle as a safety measure. The one on top probably is as well. Keeps hands away from where they don`t belong. Some people you have to take it to the next level rather than assume they have enough common sense.

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