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Gary

Chute Rotator - 42" Blower

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Gary
I finally got the window motor installed on the 42" single stage blower (never said I was fast). The motor I have, has the 12 tooth gear attached. A 3/4", 12 point, 3/8 drive socket, fits perfectly to the gear. The motor was shimmed back from the bracket, just enough to allow clearance for the socket. No set screws were used to hold the socket in place. This setup is truly "quick change", in the event of a motor failure. Probably 10 minutes, tops, to remove the 3 bolts holding on the motor, and replacing it with a different one.
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hotrodtractor
nice work very clean. what did you use for cable wrapper? is that manual turner hacked off the stick or a short one made for electric kit. I have the stock electric kit and it look close to yours.

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BLT
I got my motors out of a bone yard just before the car was crusher bound. Took about 10 mminutes to liberate. Tools needed, 10 MM oscket and nut driver, Phillips screwdriver and wire cutter used to cut wire harness with Packard plug in place. Did mine last winter and am pleased. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW7Fh8dE7dk

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Brettw
Nice looking job. Thanks to BLT I am in the same process. I am aproaching it from a different angle, so we will see how it turns out. I'll post some pics too as I get there. Hope mine turns out at least as nice as yours.

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dave7016
I am going to do one of these and I think with a light 10a circuit breaker when it gets at the end of the cables it would click the breaker "off" for a second to stop turning in case of overrun. But yea how do you make sure it isn't going to break somethin'???

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hotrodtractor
I have a stock simplicity version and it is limited by full travel. When I get to full lock whe motor is also at full lock... just like a power window motor in your car when its all the way up just let go pushing up again does not make it bind. This is the reason I never went with the winch method I saw as great as it was... stole this pic somewhere


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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by Gary
I think these motors have a clutch built in (not sure). It would seem that they would have to, considering they are normally raising glass in a run channel.
They don't have any clutch. When they get to the end of their travel they just stop. I can't imagine they draw more then a amp or so. They never trip the circuit breaker on the tractor and the wires never get warm. And the wires that I snipped off don't see to be more then 18 ga.

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Gary
Forgot to mention how the cable winder is attached to the universal. I used a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, and ground down the 1/4" drive end, so it would just fit into the winder. It was then drilled and tapped for a couple of set screws to hold it in place.

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