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Engine test stand from the junkpile: revisited


SmilinSam

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This is the test stand I made from odds & ends spare parts a number of years ago. It incorporates wiring for both magneto ignition and battery ignition. Very versaitile, it comes in handy from time to time.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1018.jpg[/img]
Main body is a variable speed 3112 frame turned upside down. Already has hole pattern for Kohler and Briggs horizontals like we all use here. To accomodate vertical shaft engines I just torched out a hole in the center and drill new mount holes as needed for the different engines that I need to test out.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1017.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1016.jpg[/img]
Front wheel supports are made from a one piece 48" mower bail( what Ive always called it anyhow), or tubular support frame piece. The braces are made from the straight bail tubes from a newer 42" mower deck. Wheels were from a old Jacobsen. Rear wheel support is made from the side parts of another 48" mower bail cut and welded together with room for the small front tire from a rear engine rider. A rod is welded to the top of that that goes up through a pipe tube welded into the frame and through a reinforced hole in the frame. Rod is set at an agle for the wheel to trail and swing. The only thing about this design is you have to be careful not to let the thing tip over if you swing the wheel under the frame during turning. Have to always work keeping the wheel to the rear of the apparatus.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1023.jpg[/img]
The dash is again from a old Jacobsen. Seemed to be just the right size and height. The gas tank is from a Deere Stx 30. Cant remember what the side braces for the tank were made from.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1015.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1018.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1022.jpg[/img]
The wiring is combined at the solenoid and ammeter and uses two keyswitches mounted in the dash. One switch is for battery ignition applications and the other is for magneto , or electronic ignition apps. All the wires are labeled for what they hook to. You just have to hook up the right wires to your engine so you dont fry something.XX(
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/hb110g1020.jpg[/img]
Then there is also the throttle and choke cables, both rather long to allow for a variety of engines and placements on the unit. Fuel line is also cut long enough to rech wherever you need without drooping too bad so you can do gravity feed if you dont have a fuel pump on engine. Got a onboard battery box too, though I have this bad habit of robbing my batteries out of it to put in tractors:D On occasion I have also been known to rob keyswitches and solenoids out of this thing too:p Only thing I should yet do is put an on board tool box for all the little things that are needed to hook stuff up to different engines.right now that all sits up on top of the gas tank agains the dash.
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Yep, I'm sure you have trouble keeping a battery in it, I would. I have been thinking of building a test stand and an old frame would make a good start. Thanks for the pictures.
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Thats a great idea...I have at least 3 engines to redo & test and thats so much easier to test on than doing a full install in the tractor dOd Good going Sam...now I'll have to add one to my "TO-DO wish list" :D
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good idea and i kinda like that, but your still bending over. i use a electric wench mounted in the cieling to pull'em. then mount it down on my rolling work bench and use a plastic tank and portable battery booster .
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I like that on wheels so you can roll it outdoors while running the engine so you dont get to much monoxide in the shop.:YXX(
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