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SmilinSam

Power Steering Stops?

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SmilinSam
Got the power steering kit installed and working, as well as the tractor all put back together for winter work. Got a question though for those who may know.. I have the steering balanced so that it steers equally right and left. I notice however that in a full left turn the tire will solidly contact and rub the steering cylinder rod. Should there be a stop installed to limit the sharpness of left turns so as to prevent the tire from contacting the rod? Some pics..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/DSCN0178.jpg[/img]
Not much clearance with the taller power steering wheel
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/DSCN0180.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/DSCN0176.jpg[/img]

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hotrodtractor
yup all mine rub on rod at full clock not an issue. That is the very reason I sold my old style cabs. One trick that worked and helped finger pinch was a spinner that had offest mount.

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
As long as the tire doesn't rub the rod section that goes inside of the cyl. it's ok.
The part the tire rub goes up to the seal , but not into it when you steer hard right. Just thought I'd ask because it rubs hard enough you can see the rubber being pushed down by the rod as it contacts the tire.

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D-17_Dave
Sam, you might look into raising that end of the cyl. up with a spacer or welding a custom bolt hole higher. The higher the better. You might also try raisingthe rear of the cyl. also if there is any room. If you have a way to control the angles you can bend a dog leg in the rod to allow a little extra clearance too.

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MikeES
You may have to switch to the older steering wheel that has less "dish" to it...it lays much flater to the center which will give you more clearance to the cab frame.

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
Sam, you might look into raising that end of the cyl. up with a spacer or welding a custom bolt hole higher. The higher the better. You might also try raisingthe rear of the cyl. also if there is any room. If you have a way to control the angles you can bend a dog leg in the rod to allow a little extra clearance too.
Might be some room at the rear to raise up. Front is already spaced at its maximum with a factory spacer. I got an idea for a simple stop on the spindle assembly to contact the axle at the desired maximum turn. As to the cab frame brace, Biggie Rat ( who sold me the cab a few years back) sent me a nice photo of the custom fab work he did on his cab to accomodate power steering. Cut the center brace out and make a new one higher up witth conduitdOd. Thats what I am planning on doing when I take the cab off next. till then I'll steer with the spokes;)

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TimJr
My factory P/S model rubs the cylinder too. Also, the cylinder will rub into the bottom of the footrest - check that clearance out when the left front tire is jacked up. Tim

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PhanDad
I cut an arc for clearance:


Sam, I would imagine you find turning the tractor with the snowblower mounted now a bit different than before the PS install. After installing the PS, did you turn the wheels before mounting the snowblower? If so, did you notice any steering effort difference with the snowblower mounted?

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SmilinSam
Bill, I never took the blower off for the install. I did however jack up the front of the tractor to try it. Didnt notice much of any difference in the efforts to turn with it off the ground or with it on the ground and the blower up. It was way easier though with the blower on than it was without the power steering dOd Here are some new pics of todays modifacation work. Adjustable Steering stop to eliminate the tire contacting the cylinder rod.. Its made from a steering arm from a left side spindle.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/015.jpg[/img]
The flat of the arm is cut off leaving enough to weld a 1/2" nut onto. Then the pice cut off is welded to the one side to hang over the edge of the spindle flat to keep it from turning when bolted in place.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/014.jpg[/img]
A bushing is welded into the bottom of the hole. I used a short driveshaft spacer for the bushing.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/013.jpg[/img]
A carriage bolt is used with the head hitting the axles as a stop. Another bushing is used, with one side ground flat for clearance,as a spacer to allow the end nut be turned to tighten and lock the bolt in place.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/009.jpg[/img]
Seems to work out just fine. I note that the steering cylinder is capable of trying to bend the spindle shaft at the end of either stroke when its fully extended, stop or no stop installed. I'm of the opinion one should keep this in mind when steering and try not to oversteer of force a tight turn if at all possible. Also got ambitious and made alterations to the cab frame as Bigge Rat suggested I do. I had a cross piece laying here from another cab off a different brand. I cut one leg off that and cut the piece above my steering wheel and re-used that with the leg. Dis some welding and here we are..
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/more%20tractor%20stuff/024.jpg[/img]

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TimJr
Mine had the nice arc worn into the footrest when I got the tractor - self clearancing feature! The geometry of the steering/length of the cylinder isn't quite right - I am concious of how far I have turned the steering so as not to constantly stress front axle parts. Still, wouldn't want to go without the P/S ever again - I use a dozer blade and snowblower on it.

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D-17_Dave
You'll likely take out the keyways or break the spindle at some point. Try moving the hole in the crank arm in a little and adjust the length of the cyl. arm to use all the stroke without hitting the rod. This will speed up the steering responce too.

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PhanDad
Sam, Had a bit of snow here yesterday, so I had the 75th out today and checked for the ps cylinder shaft/tire rub. As expected, I have it also. I had noticed the running board interfere but not the tire rub issue. I want to thank you for noticing and posting the issue. I'm not sure if I'm going to build a stop, but I definitely won't be turning "lock to lock" anymore.

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