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AC 410S Restoration.......Final Pics & Cost Totals


GLPointon

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Great job, Greg. Thanks for the pictures and instructions. I learn something every time i log on this website.
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Excellent play by play! And a great find too. Are you using a sprayer or rattle can for this one? One thing about rust. I've been using Kan lab's (maker of Kroil) rust remover for years and used it on my restore a few years ago. I love that stuff!
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Thanks Tom, I'll try the Kan Labs Product... This one is rattle cans of (Velspar Farm & Machinery) "Allis Chalmers Orange" from TSC store, and the hood, grill and wheels will be the same as on my Simplicity hoods & all white wheels: (Rustoleum) "Canvas White" Enamel
quote:
Originally posted by TomMaryland
Excellent play by play! And a great find too. Are you using a sprayer or rattle can for this one? One thing about rust. I've been using Kan lab's (maker of Kroil) rust remover for years and used it on my restore a few years ago. I love that stuff!
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OK...another weekend to work on the project:


The seat pan/fender was badly dented & bent up. After an hour with the body hammers & blocks I got it looking pretty good. also needed to weld the cracks around the rear bolt holes, then grind down & bondo smooth...






The Dash box was ok except for some holes to fill in the bottom of the battery tray and some bends along the side.






had to mask the under side of hood so I could fill some small rust holes along the top of the hood with body filler






My Decals arrived from "Click-it & Stick-it"...Here is the big Dash decal








Thought it would be easier to split the back end off for painting the "gloss black" parts






Begining to re-assemble...Always a happy time :D




















MORE TO COME...
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Chris, Thanks for the Electric PTO info, I'm searching for Phandad's repair thread now, this weekend the engine gets re-sealed & gasketed and ready to install. and I ordered the 4411 par 38 headlights too. sm01
quote:
Originally posted by sammiefish
i didnt see anyone comment on the potting of your pto coil... I dont think you should touch it.... but since its falling off I would suggest finding something to seal it with Ive heard of re-potting with some epoxy but?? Ive not done it... Ive also heard that when you put those back together you will need to use a spacer to get them centered or you will rub... a plastic strip like the drawstring of a garbage bag was suggested by Phandad as a good tool. search "electric pto" and "phandad" I think you will find a bunch of good info on these electric pto's used on allis built tractors, including replacement with a currently available pto assembly. Phil knows volumes concerning these... albeit his cases relate to the Allis built Homelites. I also understand that the coil is still available new and come with the aforementioned plastic spacer strip that you remove after assembly
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Woops. Sorry Greg, I had a typo in there. Its Kano labs www.kanolabs.com is the maker of Kroil and the Exrust. Nice job, I can't wait to see it all together!
quote:
Originally posted by GLPointon
Thanks Tom, I'll try the Kan Labs Product... This one is rattle cans of (Velspar Farm & Machinery) "Allis Chalmers Orange" from TSC store, and the hood, grill and wheels will be the same as on my Simplicity hoods & all white wheels: (Rustoleum) "Canvas White" Enamel
quote:
Originally posted by TomMaryland
Excellent play by play! And a great find too. Are you using a sprayer or rattle can for this one? One thing about rust. I've been using Kan lab's (maker of Kroil) rust remover for years and used it on my restore a few years ago. I love that stuff!

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Tom, is that the same company that makes "sili-kroil"? I've used that at work for yrs...Its like wd-40 but better at penitrating rust.
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Here's some pics of the progress I made this week after work...
















My Kohler engine gasket & seal set arrived...




I will start on the engine today... More pics tomarrow
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Looking good Greg! I mentioned you influence in getting me going on another project (TractorChick thread). You get'm in and get'm done and keep adding to a nice looking fleet!
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I have headlight bulbs on order so I am going to make a front bezel to fit the lights as follows:




I made a copy of the blank cover to cut the holes in


I traced the bulb holes from the hood, then used a center gauge to find the center of the circles




SAFETY BREIF...I attached the sheet metal to the board so it cant spin around and become a ninja sword!


The tool below is a circle cutter for sheet metal, is adjustable to cut holes from 2" to 12"...I have it set for 4" holes




Clean up the burrs and ready for pirmer & gloss black paint


Sun 1/29/12 I will have the engine put back together and painted. More To Come...
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Very nice! I wonder if it would be easier putting that big dash decal on, with the dash removed (so you don't have to try to slide the hold down over the steering shaft)??
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Malco-HC1-Sheet-Metal-Circle-cutter-2-12-/140675617276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c0eb91fc Found it. Minnesota Company about 45 minutes away. sm01
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Thanks guys, the circle cutter I have is a Malco but Menards sells a China version for < $20 (or did last time I looked) and yes it is an HVAC tool...I've been a "tin-knocker" for years doing HVAC installations, now its just Heating & W/H service work for a big utility co. thats why each time I fab something its always made of sheet metal ;)
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I got the engine re-gasket/seal job done & painted today:






Count the paper gaskets to replace later, these set the bearing space.




punch out the old seal from the back & replace


Large sockets make good seal drivers




layer the main & paper gaskets using gasket shelac between each one.( I like the shelac, it doesnt ooze out and it holds things in place)






The seal on the PTO side can be pulled out easily from the outside with a seal pulling hook.




Oil pan look great! No sludge or metal particles...a great sign considering this tractor sat in a field for many years






I'm taping the holes that get filled after the paint job...










I use anti-sieze on everything that is hard to get apart to help the next guy...it may be me??




Hi-Temp flat black paint followed later by Hi-temp Gloss Black






Thanks to Phandad's prior posting I used a plastic trash bag strip as a spacer between the clutch and the PTO drum, tightened bolts then pulled out the plastic strip








MORE TO COME...sm01
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Nice job Greg. We are enjoying the detailed pictures. Nothing like the satisfaction of seeing a restoration come together and look like a new machine. John U
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