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scrapper

Headlights 7012 simp

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scrapper
Hello new member here, and currently proud new owner of a late 70's model 7012h simplicity. The dude I bought it from says he restored it but really he slapped a coat of paint on it. I love this machine. I am also a little afraid of tinkering with it. I consider myself pretty handy but I don't exactly know what is orig and what has been messed with on this machine for a quick sale. My headlights don't work. Amp meter doesn't work either. Ignition is the only electrical option that works. The switch is also missing. I have traced the wires to find to the lights which have no power to them according to the volt meter. If I was to install a switch and run wire to the lights were do I go to? The Battery? The Solenoid? Are the bulbs inside these lens replaceable"Like tractor supply, replaceable". I appreciate any help or advice before I just get frustrated and attempt to just start from scratch and rewire the whole unit.

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hotrod712
I have Basically the same Tractor but it is a Allis 712s. I had to rewire the lights on mine also. You will need just a basic 3 post switch, then run one wire to the battery and the other two to the lights. The posts on the switch should be labeled. As for the bulbs, they are a basic replacement you can pick up at any autoparts store or your simplicity dealer will have them too.

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BLT
Read the first thread. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=119527 Here is operator's manual and on the last pages is the wire diagrams. The manual shows two ignition systems, open to run for the Briggs and open to stop with the Kohler. You have the Kohler if nothing has been changed since new. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCyEN8coJ3rE5CNj5kbp796Dq

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scrapper
Ya thanks guys that helps a lot. It is indeed the 12 horse kohler. Luckily I do have the manual also thanks for the link. I feel I can tackle this little job here. I guess I was just a little intimidated by the age of the tractor for fear of breaking something. I originally choose simplicity for the "simple designs" and beefiness of the brand. I bought it to use, but seeing how cool and rugged well made this machine is I want to bring it back to a working restoration. I never thought it would turn into a neat little hobby. I really appreciate the help. I love this sight. Very resourceful.

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JimDk
Welcome to the club. Yes, it can be a hobby, or for some of us, it becomes a sickness.:D:D Our goal is to acquire one tractor for each attachment. Of course, a few parts machines are needed. Well, you get the idea.

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scrapper

[img]Thanks again everyone, one more question any one own one of those Johnny bucket units if so is my 7012 big enough to hand the weight. Also anyone ever seen the stinger weight. Ive been looking and I can't seem to get a pict. of one. Just curious. My tractor plows my drive I have tire chains but I think I need some counter weight. If the stinger weights are very uncommon. I could use some simple cleaves style bolt on bolt off DIY counterweight design., preferably not the concrete block model.

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scrapper
Another thing every time I try to attach a pict. to a post it shows up as this box with a red x why is it not showing up its just my profile picture but everyone else has a picture when they send out a reply or post?
[img]/club2/attach/BLT/Scrapper1.jpg[/img]

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by scrapper
Another thing every time I try to attach a pict. to a post it shows up as this box with a red x why is it not showing up its just my profile picture but everyone else has a picture when they send out a reply or post?
[img]/club2/attach/scrapper/image[1].JPG[/img]

I sent you a PM

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RickS
Nick, There are several members here with the Johnny Buckets. Your tractor is more than strong enough for the Johnny bucket. I know several members use smaller tractors than what you have. I have a Johnny bucket and first used in on a 7012H without any trouble. The only real problem I have with mine is when I overload it with rocks which lightens the rear tires enough I can barely move the tractor. To be clear that is my fault and not the tractor's or the bucket's. Welcome to the site. Rick.........

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RayS
[quote]Originally posted by bigten65
Is there anyway to get a jonny bucket to raise of the ground, like 4 feet high? How high do they normaly raise? I am thinking of using a 12 volt wench. No. You would need a FEL.

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RickS
A Johnny Bucket is designed for transporting material not for loading trailers, trucks, and the like. Think of a Johnny Bucket as a motorized wheelbarrow. Johnny Buckets in the fully raised postion are not more than 4 to 6 inches off the ground. Rick......

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MysTiK
Welcome scrapper. I gotta say you remind me of myself - I feel compelled to be very careful in any mechanical adventures also. And yes, afraid of breaking things and making it worse. I find manuals helpful, and asking questions here also helps. Back to your original question on headlights - I found an old thread of mine, featuring my amateur adventures while trying to get my lights working. Between my 2 tractors (one is parts) I had everything available, and basically just had to rewire - but I also picked best parts from both tractors. Thread is here, might be helpful, or good for a chuckle - whatever. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=117746&SearchTerms=headlights,716H I did not have to mess with the light switch; mostly just rewire and clean the parts. Most of it was a mystery until I disassembled the puzzle pieces. Then it was obvious. Simp 7000's and AC 700's models are essentially all the same tractor. Motor sizes vary, and wheel/tire sizes vary - those are the main differences, a few other details with engine/charging systems/ starter systems. But they are overall pretty close. My main tractor is a 716Hydro; my parts tractor is a 716-6speed. But many parts will interchange throughout either series, so a wreck will make a good parts tractor potentially. Hope that helps. A lot of this involves having some basic tools, like a set of wrenches; and a lot of this is learn by doing. Being careful is a good approach. Confidence increases after a few successful small ventures. sm01 One of the best things is to follow the manual and do all basic maintenance items, especially greasing and changing fluids, so you know that's all good to go. I tend to baby mine (usually) cos I know it's old; but it has to earn it's keep also.

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NandoG
A club member is selling this stinger weight close to you in Waterport NY on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Simplicity-Allis-Chalmers-rear-stinger-weight-and-collar-counter-weight-/180799858048?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1882e580#shId

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scrapper
Hey thanks again guys. Grahm you have some beauties. I never thought for a second that I would have falling in love so quickly with a lawn tractor but I definitely have. My goal was to buy something built to last and not spend a fortune. now I want another one. Thank you bLt for the help with the pics. The model I have I am so impressed with its power I am currently using it to plow mine and the neighbors drive. I haven't found a snowbank big enough to stop the old girl yet. Although I am spinning out at the top of the hill even with the chains. Thus I feel the need for some weight. I want the stinger simply cause it was meant for my tractor. Just trying to keep it pretty and functional thanx again everyone.


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scrapper
Man! that guy in water port wants 140.00 for that weight. is that what they go for? maybe I should attempt to fab. somethin. I just wanted to keep her lookin factory. But for 140 big ones I donno.???

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scrapper
Oh yeah by the way I don't want everyone thinking I am some sort of freaky punk with my "cover the earth black" saying at the bottom. I will give a quick explanation.... I do asphalt paving for a living. Grass and weeds are the enemy. Sherwin Williams paint slogan is "cover the earth" so I added to that, with the word black at the end of it. I joke around with my construction buddies saying the end result of all our work is to.... cover the earth black, get it?

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rokon2813
Nick, that price might be a tad high, bit they do go higher at times too. Bear in mind that price includes shipping, and it is a heavy part, and between ebay and paypal they are taking over 20% most of the time. On your particular tractor, if your only looking for traction weight, I would suggest wheel weights first. I'm pretty sure your lifts do not work opposite, so you would be lifting the counter weight and your plow at the same time. unless you reverse the lift systems to work opposite, then the counter weight will help to lift the plow. I'm not real familiar with your model so I'm not sure about reversing the operation of the rear lift. If your still interested in the stinger, watch it, and if it doesn't sell (I think it will) send me a message and we can talk. Since your only about 40 minutes away I think, you will probably get to know me eventually. ;)

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scrapper
Your, prob, right about the price Dan, I'd love to run into you some day. My tractor is a manual lift plow I didn't quite understand when you said I'd be lifting the counterweight along with the plow? Bear with me though I can be a little "Simple" sometimes though. Get it? LoL!!!! Seriously though for me a rear counter would help me with the wheel spinning at the top of the drive at the hill and road. BLT thank you for that past thread it helped give me some confidence. I went to tractor supply last night and bought some new wire, a switch, butt connectors, and even a fancy new back light I'm going for it thanx to you guys.

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rokon2813
To start with, for the stinger type rear weight, you need a rear lift. I can't tell from your profile pictures, not sure you have one. On the older tractors, the lifts work opposite. When the plow goes up, the rear lift goes down. So the stinger weight counters the plow and makes it lift easier. On the newer models like yours, when the plow goes up, the rear lift goes up too. So rather than countering the weight of the plow, you would be lifting the weight of the plow and lifting the weight of the stinger at the same time. There is a method of reversing the cable on the rock shaft so that yours would work opposite like the older models. Wheel weights as well as loading the tires would both help with your wheel spin if you don't have a rear lift, or don't want to reverse the rear lift. Both could be done cheaper than the stinger. Wheel weights off other brands show up fairly often on craigs list Buffalo. There was also a set of correct wheel weights in our classifieds right now. If you still want a stinger style weight, and don't have a rear lift, I may have one to fit, but would be an older style and not exactly correct. You can also make your own stinger, with a piece of shaft and some barbell weights pretty cheap. If you need any more help just ask :D:D

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scrapper
Hey thanx again that does help. that rear lift has sort of been a mystery in its self to me. since I bought the tractor I haven't been able to figure out how it works or lifts. like I said the plow has a manual lift. It seems isolated to only lifting the plow and deck. The rear system in its entirety seems to be stand alone operation. Anyway that's its own beast to tackle with more time. Right now I'm currently in the garage freezing my ..... - off !! Trying to wire me up some headlights... with 0 success. I have the diagram. The manual. Everything to do the job. I plugged new bulbs in and just tried to get them to light up first, while in the tractors socket first and nothing. no switch in between nothing, just housing to the wires to the battery. nothing I'm getting irritated! I hate wires most of all things mechanical. Ive' Built engines(with help) Transmissions (with a lot of help) Ball joints on my 1 ton pickup, many other things I don't mind. Lighting and wires suck. The diagram shows the two lights going int one wire then to the the switch then to A.C. This tractor doesn't have a two into one connector front lights into one wire. I need that? Even still One wire to one light to power source still no lights. Could it bee that housing were the bulb plugs in? I cleaned it up it looks fine??? Please help. I took your advise BLT with the one wire trick to the power, still I got nothing. That's why I think somethings going on with the housing. But it looks fine and its a pretty simple set up what aren't I seeing?

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MysTiK
Lights are basically a single wire system, and the circuit completes with the "frame" parts of the lights bolting onto the body/grille, which grounds it out - that happens where the small bolts mount the lights, and the frames press the 1/4" tabs against the body/grille to cause ground. (I sanded those 1/4" tabs to improve contact on mine.) The 2 into 1 connector is just a nicety; you could fake it, or test it, by just twisting wires together at that point. Not sure if direct contact with +ve batt terminal would work for testing - thinking possibly too much current ?? blowing bulbs up.???? If you are using old wires, there might be a break, bends, worn insulation, etc. (any wire will work to test). Overall it's a pretty simple circuit, just the frame acting as ground, and 2 lights instead of 1. Oh yeh, the bulbs need to be working bulbs, of course - there isn't much else, except you mentioned a SWITCH issue earlier. I think the switch is simple enough but it must be wired properly to work properly and utilize the split-circuit feature - use your wiring diagram for that. My switch worked, so I never had to mess with that - but you want that switch for long term ops - and the lights end up on their own separate circuit, powered by separate section of split- circuit alternator = so the battery is NEVER used directly. Trace your wires and look for insulation break, etc. Get a good ground, and with good bulbs, you should see a light show. 8) Did you get the new SWITCH yet? I should say, again, I am a lot like you with this stuff - I was pretty lost until I got a really rough (flashing on/off) light show - then it all made sense. It's like a flashlight - check the bulb contacts are clean also - jiggle wires might help find a short or break in the circuit. You can't really hurt anything. I would get the switch installed and go from there - I think the switch should be the only hard part of this. When I got my first signs of life, I had all the parts loosely connected just lying on the tilted grille, everything flashing on and off with engine running - then I just had to SECURE everything. It was laughable. A real mechanic could do this in 5 minutes - it took me 3 days. :D It's really COOL when it works. 8D (more bling) sm01

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