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JohnFornaro

Bevel gear box compatibility?

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JohnFornaro
I have a Sovereign 1692945. Can I use the 7016 bevel gear box for this tractor? The various parts manuals don't specify BGB's as a kit, only as parts. To build a new BGB from parts is wayyyy out of sight financially. So I've been looking at Ebay for an equivalent. Found this one.

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by JohnFornaro
I have a Sovereign 1692945. Can I use the 7016 bevel gear box for this tractor? The various parts manuals don't specify BGB's as a kit, only as parts. To build a new BGB from parts is wayyyy out of sight financially. So I've been looking at Ebay for an equivalent. Found this one.
If it is out of tractor number 1690202/3, it looks to be ok. It has same input and ouput shaft numbers and the gears are the same.

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RayS
The hydro, shuttle and 6 speed uses the same drven shaft from the 7000 series to they stop production. All the part numbers in the manuals supercede to the part number used on the last production models. Per Jacks website. 3400 series use the same bgb as well. It just has different size nut on the driven shaft.

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JohnFornaro
Thanks guys. Just went on Ebay to purchase. Next question: The Sovereign is whining. Seems to be coming from the BGB. It's full of oil, but whgat happens is that it is foaming. So I'm thinking it's on its way out, hence the insurance purchase. Is there a graphite additive I could add to the BGB which would "magically"cure it? I think I let the fluid level get too low.

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MysTiK
I always read BGB threads, trying to glean information. BGB's terrify this amateur mechanic. Certainly checking oil level is good. I would tend to recommend changing the oil in the box. Specs call for different fluids, some say trans fluid, some say 90weight gear oil. I tend to favor gear oil, and that IS the spec for my 716H. Contaminants in the oil, such as water, condensation, etc., are certainly not good. So changing the oil is recommended, and it's very easy to drain and refill - I like easy. In my limited knowledge, I also know it is possible to shim the BGB, or add shims, to improve over-spec clearances caused by excessive wear, and that as an alternative to full replacement at higher cost. And this simply is an attempt to bring closer enmeshment of the bevelled gears themselves. That's potentially a temporary fix; but it could last also. Other parts can also wear but maybe ok. For me, lacking direct experience, it's all easier said than done. Until I gain more knowledge and courage, I run new clean gear oil, and check the level often. My BGB is a constant concern - one of these days I will pursue it; and hopefully before I have to. This is also one big reason for keeping my parts tractor, which cost me roughly what a BGB costs, and came with other attachments I immediately needed. Not to mention, all those other small parts, some of which I have used, and the parts tractor is still fully restorable, given a motor. The cost of the BGB parts alone, prevents me from selling the parts tractor - it earns it's keep by posing as a money tree. sm01

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JohnFornaro
Thanks, BLT. Over the summer, it seemed like it was "whining" more and more. Instead of taking the hint then, I checked the oil a month ago, and noticed foaming. It took at least 4 ounces of gear oil. But the oil that was in the BGB was clean. After the fill-up, the whining didn't stop. So here I am. Driving the tractor under heavy load. I should wait until it fail? I'm not relishing the idea of a tear down.

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RayS
quote:
Originally posted by JohnFornaro
Thanks, BLT. Over the summer, it seemed like it was "whining" more and more. Instead of taking the hint then, I checked the oil a month ago, and noticed foaming. It took at least 4 ounces of gear oil. But the oil that was in the BGB was clean. After the fill-up, the whining didn't stop. So here I am. Driving the tractor under heavy load. I should wait until it fail? I'm not relishing the idea of a tear down.
How much backlash is there? If holding the driveshaft or inputshaft in one hand steady and try turning the drivenshaft. How much will the drivenshaft move before the driveshaft wants to turn. I have seen them move upto a 1/8" with all new parts installed.

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by JohnFornaro
In order to do that, you have to disconnect the driveshaft first, right?
NO, all you have to do is measure the rotation difference on the PTO cup. Rotate cup until there is no movement. Make a visible mark on both the cup and cone of PTO. After that, rotate the cup until it stops, make another mark from the cone to the cup, then measure the distance. Then report back. That's it.;)

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JohnFornaro
From what I can tell, it's about 1/16th of an inch, which seems pretty tight to me. Could the faces of the bevel gears themselves be roughened for any reason? Perhaps sand got in there somehow? Over on another thread, there is a discussion about transmission whine. When I filled up the BGB, I also noticed that the tranny was way low: about 4 ounces of ATF was needed to top it off. BTW, some years ago, I drained the tranny, and refilled with ATF.

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RayS
I have rebuilt quite a few of these with all brand new parts and most of them will have 1/16th play with all new parts. I would run it. You can use the following oil stated in the diagram below in the tranny.


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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by JohnFornaro
So, am I hearing Tranny whine?
I could be possible that you are hearing the charge pump whine. With the tractor running put put a couple fingers on charge and see if the vibrations kind of match the tone you are hearing.

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