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Starter Generator help


Buickgsman

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I am getting ready to try and fire the B12 up for the first time since I bought it. I was told it ran but you know how that goes. The carb cleaned up pretty nice and by moving the engine by hand I seem to get a little compression. I tried to ceank her over with the starter and nothing happened. I broke out the test light and have power at the cable coming from the start switch when I push the switch. Is the other wire on the S/G supposed to be involved when the button is pushed? Should the S/G just spin over when power is applied to that main terminal? I have a lot to learn with the starter generators so any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Bob
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Some of the other people here have nice wiring diagrams and not too long ago there was quite a long thread about the S/G. Having said that, the small wire from the starter switch should go to the small terminal on the solenoid. The + battery cable should go to the one large terminal on the solenoid, and another heavy wire should go from the other large terminal on the solenoid to the "A" terminal on the S/G. The "F" terminal on the S/G is not involved with starting.
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I just went through a lot of this, and the bottom line is check the wiring on your tractor against the diagram. If the battery is charged and the connections are right, the S/G will turn. If it just spins, the belt is loose. If it doesn't turn over at all, then it is most likely an S/G issue (might be the solenoid though; you can jump that, but be careful) If the S/G does start the motor, then, while the motor is running and spinning the generator, there are some tests to see if the generator is actually charging the battery. The S/G CAN start the motor, and NOT charge the battery at the same time. There is some work you can do on the S/G yourself, namely cleaning the carbon out of it and installing new brushes. The brushes are available at NAPA. It was fun, I learned a lot. Some of my wires were not necessary, and/or wrong, and I needed a new regulator, but now it starts better, and does charge the battery.
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If the B-12 still has the big push button starter switch in the dash, it will not have a solenoid. This push button starter switch acts as a manual solenoid. The contacts close when the button is pushed, and completes the circuit between the battery and the "A" post on the S/G.
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quote:
Originally posted by JimDk
If the B-12 still has the big push button starter switch in the dash, it will not have a solenoid. This push button starter switch acts as a manual solenoid. The contacts close when the button is pushed, and completes the circuit between the battery and the "A" post on the S/G.
I learned something today. Didn't realize the old tractors had a heavy duty manual push button starting switch. I imagined a small light duty starting button.
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Without a picture of the B-12, I was guessing that it still has the OEM set up. The key start and solenoid was not used until part way thru the B-110/B-112 run. The safety nazis got involved, I think.
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Reminds me of the old cars' Hi-Beam footswitch, and also the way you had to jiggle the heel of your right foot on the gas, while you pushed the starter button with the ball of same foot. Key on, choke out, clutch in (left foot), right foot on the gas and starter button, left hand on the choke cable. Aahhhh, but I digress....
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Careful Bob, You are telling on yourself. ( Age Wise ) I learned to drive in my grandpa's '36 Chevy farm truck and it had all the features that you mention. Of course, I never got to use the starter because the 6v battery was always dead, so I bump started it down the barn bridge slope. How else was I to go see the red headed neighbor girl. It was not cool to walk or ride a bike.:D Now I'm telling my age.:||
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quote:
Originally posted by BLT
Dan, a spitting image of this. http://www.tractorpartmart.com/us/starter-switch-p5138.html
Yes...thank-you. A lot of Oliver and Ford (maybe Farmall, too?) farm tractors had a similar switch for starting. Allis-Chalmers farm tractors mounted their switch on the starter itself and activated it with a pull rod (or in the case of the WC and RC, a rod you pushed with your foot.)
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No, I did not. She went off to college, and left the truck and me back on the farm. I married a town girl and converted her to a country girl 50+ years ago.:)
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I had a 38 Chevy,knee action front suspension that always leaked. I got real good at dropping the pan and removing shims from the rods,with the babbitt bearings.I spent more time under the car then I did driving it.:D Boy that was a hundred year ago. Gas was about 18 cent a gallon. Sorry I got carried away.:D
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Thanks guys, i got her turning over now. I have a real weak spark so I need to investigate that. I may throw a set of points in it and go from there. Bob
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