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steveo358

Box Blade Question

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steveo358
Hi, I am interested in adapting a box blade to pull behind a 7117. I am thinking about juyst a general boxblade, maybe 5 foot, and cutting the middle out to make it maybe 42 inch, and adapting for a sleeve hitch. has anyone done something similar, and would it work. We live where alot of people access the same drive, and it stays a mess. I am wanting to keep a gravel drive up, and my 7117 is all I have. I would love to find an earthcavator box,but that seems to be an impossible task. Any other good boxblades that I may could buy in that size? Im not looking for one of the agri fab or newer brinly, as they dont seem heavy enough to be effective. Thanks, Steve

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SmilinSam
Heres the one I made from a 46 HD Simplicity dozer blade using the shanks from a old rear mount Simplicity cultivator for the cutter shanks..and some odds & ends steel laying around.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Picture201.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Picture196.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Picture197.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Picture200.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/Picture199.jpg[/img]

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midnightpumpkin
Sam, That is some really nice work on your box blade. Steve, you would probably do better with a mid mount grader blade. You can stand on the stirrup's to apply down pressure. Maybe fabricate a separate scarifier for the rear hitch. I just bought a 5'box blade to use on my POWERMAX tractors, it is massive, side plates are 17" H x 20" long. I plan to cut it down to 48" to use on the Powermax. I think it would be way too much for a 7117. This is a King Kutter 5' blade.


Here it is on the Powermax.


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steveo358
Yea, What Sam has is exactly what I am looking for except needing either simplicity lift, or a sleeve hitch setup. I was thinking about a more light duty boxblade, and cutting the middle out,rewelding back at probably 40 or 42 inch width,and adapting for sleeve hitch.

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SmilinSam
Yes, the 42" blade woould also make a suitable box blade start. I wanted the heaver more reinforced 46 because I am using mine in the gravel driveway sometimes. I have had the Agrifab brinly mount ones before and they are just about only good for loose dirt. The scarifier assembly wont hack packed soil or gravel. They are also light weight, and while a guy can hang more weight on them, they may just end up being twisted up like a pretzel if you try to do too much with them. Thanks for the compliment JohndOd

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Talntedmrgreen
Sam, what Cub is the box mounted to? Looks like a nice setup, but I'm unfamiliar with their machines. Curious what Simlicity GT would be equivilent to the pulling machine of what you have there. I know there are folks who build the aftermarket 3pt's for Cubs and others, and spoke with one such fabricator who wanted to guage interest in doing so for Simplicity. I like the results of a wider box, but don't know how much weight and HP a guy needs to make one effective.

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Talntedmrgreen
10-4...a little too much for a Landlord/Soverign? I'm betting you could stop one in it's tracks with anything that has serious scarifiers on the right/wrong surface, but how about the cutting edge? Probably would never want to go narrower than the rear wheels though, I'm guessing.

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SmilinSam
A Soveriegn may handle it with front wheel weights. I'll have to make up a suitable 3 point hitch for one of my Soveriegn class and see how it works8D For the OP, one thing to keep in mind, is that a box blade with scarifiers works better on a three point system that it does on a one point brinly setup. I say this because the 3 point allows the unit to be raised and lowered in a more level state in relation to the ground. A single point system will only put the implement on the ground at an angle. If you follow what I am saying. Now, you could build one to lift like the tillers on the rear lift setup. Some in here have built ball hitches that raise and lower on such a system. Just something to think about..

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Robert Kehoe
I love a center grader blade. You can level a drive because it rides between the axels. You can put your weight on it to move dirt to one side or another. I have seen guys put a serated edge on to cut into harder dirt.

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johnmonkey
Here is a link to a rear mounted grader blade that had scarifiers pivot down in front of the smoothe edge of a grader blade. I hope it works. Nice fab work there Sam. jh http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=101502&SearchTerms=grader,blade

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D-17_Dave
Don't forget that to maintain a gravel/dirt driveway it needs to be smooth but not flat. It must have a center crown to force water into the side ditch and off the road bed or the water will permeate the base and soften it and you'll soon have it full of holes again. I've done mine many times with a rear blade at an angle pulling up gravel from into the edge of the ditch line working it all the way to a windrow in the center of the drive. Then in one pass, (and this takes practice) with the blade straight, feather out the windrow into the wheel routes leaving a slight crown to be packed solid. This is the same way any professional would do with a motor grader. You can do this easily with a mid mount blade, it just takes a few passes and a little practice.

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