1690043 Electric Lift - Burning through Switches

[TollFreeCaller]

I have what appears to be a 1690043 for my Simplicity 7016. The lift is a little slow, but powerful. Moved a lot of dirt with the blade this summer. Which brings me to the problem -I'm burning through these switches with the heavy use. Does anyone have motor data for this unit? I'm thinking an H-Bridge would stop the issues with the switches burning up. If someone already solved this with a bridge or a sealed switch, point me in the right direction. Thanks.

[Ronald Hribar]

I think you need a 30 amp switch

[TollFreeCaller]

I should probably clarify - not burning up but the contacts are arcing so that the switch needs to be pulled apart and the surface cleaned off or the use of an abrasive to clean up the contacts. I don't think a 30A switch replacing my 20A will stop the arcing but I've been wrong before. Do you know the rating for the motor?

[Oz]

Not sure what switch you are talking about, but usually putting a relay between the switch and what ever it goes to, helps. A relay will take the load off the switch, and give more power to the unit. Oz

[GLPointon]

Use an ammeter to see if the lift motor is pulling too many amps. Motors have ratings called FLA (full load amps), if it exceeds it than the motor is going bad unless theres a real "drag" on it which brings you to the other rating LRA (locked rotor amps). I would check the running amps, if well below 30 then be sure your switch is a NEW 30Amp switch... Good luck sm01

[kilalove21]

a relay is the best option, like oz said.

[GLPointon]

A relay is not an easy thing to install after the switch on an E-lift,, Oz said put a relay "between the switch & load". Except E-Lift is reversable so hot & ground flip-flop, so at minimum you'd need 2 relays & some funky wiring...I say dont try to "out engineer the engineers". There are millions of these working as engineered: Power from "Key Hot" terminal strip to DPDT Lift Switch, then to Lift motor. You just have a bad switch or motor...I'd try a New (Hi-Quality) 30amp switch sm01 Good Luck

[TollFreeCaller]

To make a motor controller is about $25 in parts (mainly diodes, transistors, resistors). Probably the manufacturer didn't care too much about arcing on release of the contacts as most often there isn't heavy use. Something like raising and lowering a deck doesn't create big issues so the manufacture cost for this was probably avoided. But, when you are constantly adjusting a blade height for taking down piles over 4' high then the switch doesn't last as long before the arcing fouls up the contacts. With a cleaned up switch I moved out my 6+" of snow today so maybe I need to try out a motor controller after manually putting on a meter to see what this motor draws in real world conditions.

[RedbarnRick]

Try Allen-Bradley switches, I used a joystick model with my electric lift, they are industrial switches that are rebuildable, I found mine on ebay.
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[GLPointon]

Good job Rick...now THATS a "Hi-Quality" switch.