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B110guy

Do I need a hi/lo?

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B110guy
Planning on getting a plow and roto-tiller for my B110. Am I going to need or wish I had a hi/lo for using those? I would assume that without one, I'll be using 1st gear for both, is that going to be too fast, or will I get by without one? B110guy

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RayS
It would sure help with the tiller. Hi-Lo are nice but hard to find and expensive. You can use a low speed pulley kit and can get the pulley that is need at a fraction of the cost from a Ag supply store or on line retailer very reasonably priced. The pulley size and belt length needed is in the link below. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8cuG4rE3Cvh5kbp796Dq

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bowhunt4life
I have a Hi-Lo on my Big 10 and love it, I rarely take it out of low gear, so I am tilling in L1 and mowing in L3. I also wanted to try the low speed pulley kit. I purchased an 8" drive pulley from McMaster Carr for about $30 and it works just a good as the Hi Lo only I don't have the option of the high gears. I will till with my landlord in 1st gear and mow in 3rd gear now that the 8" pulley is on. The inexpensive way is to try a 8" or 10" pulley from McMaster Carr. Thanks, Chris

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B110guy
Thanks for the tip. I didn't know about that. Does the 10" pulley give the same low speeds as the hi/lo. It would be nice to have the "right now" ability of a hi/lo, but switching pulley's can't take more than a few minutes. AaronSEIA

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steve-wis
Not sure with the plow, but would think from my experience on the farm with big tractors that you will need enough speed to "roll" the furrow over. I am thinking that either 1st or 2nd without hi-lo would be about right, assuming enough power to pull the plow. For tilling, I have a small frame Allis 810GT with tiller and no hi-lo. 1st gear is fine for most tilling with mine, but if you are opening up a sodded place for the first time a slower speed would be nice. I have to go over these new places many times to break up the sod clumps. For comparing, my tractor goes 1 mph at 3600 rpm in 1st gear. Steve

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GrincheyOne
Not only are complete Hi-Lo kits hard to come by, but so are the parts needed to keep them up; this includes the "special-nuts", stop plates, and the shifting pivots. The installation also requires the shortening of the main drive shaft into the trans-axle. My Landlord came with one already installed, and I have been through about three complete sets of spare parts over 36 years. (I would attribute this to letting teenagers drive my 2110, the same ones who blew a rod).

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Talntedmrgreen
I've really enjoyed the HiLo on my B110. It works very well, and I use it mainly in the spring and fall, when tilling. I mow in H3, so the option of popping down to L1 to get a nice, single pass tilling job is appreciated. I find the standard 1st gear too fast, and would run a larger pulley if I didn't have the HiLo. They are pricey, and I've been fortunate to stumble on a couple complete, and several others by means of finding parts. The most commonly worn parts are the pivots and shift plate, which are now replicated by several folks. I recently picked up a dozen pivots and 4 shift plates for around $25. Those will last me quite some time. I have never heard of or required shortening the transaxle shaft on any of my 3 speed machines.

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bowhunt4life
I had a second HI Lo to put on my 64 landlord and slid it on the transaxle shaft and it wouldn't slide on all the way. Looked at my Big 10 and realized that the simplicity shaft was longer than the allis shaft. I had a machine shop recreate the Hi Lo rod and bracket and picked up some delrin and had shift pivots made. That said the slow me down pulley either the 8" or 10" work just as well and is a lot less expensive. I used the 8" pulley on my 64 landlord and it pulled my single bottom plow and then tilled a 1/2 acre food plot for the deer just fine.

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Talntedmrgreen
quote:
Originally posted by bowhunt4life
I had a second HI Lo to put on my 64 landlord and slid it on the transaxle shaft and it wouldn't slide on all the way. Looked at my Big 10 and realized that the simplicity shaft was longer than the allis shaft.
Hmm...I'll go have to look now. Got me curious. The Squire is my oldest roundhood, and should be the same as your '64. I know my B110, Big Ten and 101 have shown no difference that I've noticed. Might not have been looking hard enough ;)

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Chris727
I know that the 700/B-1 through early B-10 had a longer transmission input shaft. My B-12 and late B-10 parts machine have the shorter shaft just like on my B-110's.

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MysTiK
quote:
Originally posted by Talntedmrgreen
Interesting...I guess it pays to actually READ those manuals. I treat them like picture books d:)
OT quick question OT - very generally, is a 716 6-speed (3x2 hilo) similar in principle? ("Yes" or "No" will do, thanx) (I didn't read the manual, or the pictures, yet sm01 cos it's on my 'parts tractor').

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Talntedmrgreen
quote:
Originally posted by MysTiK [br- very generally, is a 716 6-speed (3x2 hilo) similar in principle? ("Yes" or "No" will do, thanx)
"Yes"

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MysTiK
Thx for comments on the OT. It's very much in the background on the parts tractor, unless I find a motor. back on topic, I must say i like the idea of that 8" or 10" pulley to gear everything down - quick, easy, cheap. My main tractor is a hydro, and I find mostly I run really slow speed anyway, almost never do I push the hydro stick full on. Without any study on speed specs, I think I would opt for the 8" pulley size. (especially if hi/lo units are expensive and high maintenance, as was indicated).

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Talntedmrgreen
I don't know that I would consider them high maintenance...certainly moreso than a standard pulley. When I get one, I go through it, inside and out, give it a good cleaning, and start with fresh grease. After that, I think I would like to pull each one open a year or so later, to clean it. I'm guessing most go their whole lives without ever being opened up, and I have not had one personally, that showed signs of failure. I like to tinker like that, and the simple maintanence tasts are still enjoyable to me...for now. 8D

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timflury
I agree with your maintenance Josh. Open the cover annually and basically see if the grease is still clean. On the small frame gearsets, there are small holes in the gear valley on the planet gears to allow a syringe type fitting on your grease gun. There is also a grease hole on the main shaft. Graham, Do you have a 990238 manual?? They give part numbers and belt sizes for the 8" AND the 10" pulleys.

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mwells
The hi-lo is slower then the 10 inch pulley, only time I noticed it was when I was tilling side by side with my dad. He was on his B110 with the 10 inch and I was on my B-12 with the hi-lo. My preferance is the hi-lo for tilling, just that little drop in speed makes a big difference over the 10 inch when tilling!

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B110guy
Do you remember what gears you guys were in? I like the thought of having the quick options for speeds, but I also like the thought of going cheap with a 10" pulley and new belt. B110guy

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rokon2813
If you have never had a hi lo, you would be very happy with a 10" pulley. Once you have used a hi lo though, you won't want to go back. I would guess the ground speed in first gear just above idle with a 10" pulley is a bit faster than a troy built walk behind. With a hi lo, at the same RPM, a bit slower than the troy builts JMO Thats for tilling. For pulling a plow, first gear with the stock pulley is fine, sometimes second depending on ground conditions. Never tried the hi lo blowing snow, but the 10" pulley works fine for that too, first gear in heavy or deep snow, 2nd in lighter stuff. The best thing for snow is a hydro, second is a variable or shuttle shift. Also, for mowing, the 10" pulley is fast enough in 3rd gear, unless you have a very smooth lawn. (I dont):D

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