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CDeHeer

New 725

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CDeHeer
I picked up this 725 on CL. Looks pretty straight. MFG# 990269 Deck#990190 I installed a battery and the S/G turned over but no fire. I put fuel in the chamber still no fire. I grabbed the wire while cranking and chose not to hold on but assume hot spark would have taken the choice out of it. What to check first? I am unfamiliar with the old points. Any insight appreciated





[img]/club2/attach/CDeHeer/Back1.JPG[/img]

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BLT
I agree with Mike, I would do some buffing to bring back the original lustre. Your points are probably OK, but will be needing a condenser. The 725 has a Model 19 or 19D engine both having points. While function and theory are the same, the parts look a tad different. Assuming it is just that, watch this, to get your feet wet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJArptA6Vco

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CDeHeer
Thanks for the compliments on it. The motor sounded as if it was close to firing. However I have felt hot spark and it was not a choice to hold on. I will replace the Condenser ASAP per BLT's advise. So Far I have topped the oil off (1/2 Quart), Greased the PTO, Flushed and added Fuel. There are acorns in the frame around the flywheel so I assume the shroud is full of mouse crap. I will change the gear lube as soon as it fires. Deck Bearings will need attention as it seizes up after 1/2 rotation. It feels as if something under the covers is binding up
[img]/club2/attach/CDeHeer/Carb1.JPG[/img]


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ReedS
I would absolutly investigate the flywheel shrould for critter nests! Before you do that, do you have spark? If you have spark just clean out the shroud but if don't after replacing the condensor, you might want to replace the magneto coil which is located under the shroud. The early 19 coils were located under the flywheel, so that may need to be removed as well. All in all a very nice looking 725!

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D10-Allis
Very Nice original, Photo #3 How did the serial number tag make it all the way home. Photo #3 What is the Rod going from the steering wheel shaft over to the bolt on the Hood, Is that the Battery Cable ?It dosn't show up in the other Photo's.

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Chris727
I saw that one on CL, it looked like a great buy. Even the bolt-together deck looks good. Its also hard to find these tractors with the original model 19 engine. I would change all the engine oil soon after running it, especially after reading Al's post about oil gelling.

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henroan
Nice looking tractor. My first was a 725 and thank god for that cause their easy to work on. Check under the shroud sounds like you have nest in there. I converted mine to an external coil since the original wasn't working. Been running great since. Have fun.

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BLT
If the engine has a hint of spark, remove the spark plug so engine spins freely. Then using an plastic covered screw driver or a rubber covered pliers, hold spark plug wire and with tip about an 1/8" away from a cylinder head fin or head bolt, spin engine over and observe for spark. If you get a spark, try drawing the tip a little further away. If you get between a 3/16 and 1/4 arc, you should be in pretty decent shape ignition wise.

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CDeHeer
It definitely has some spark and I have a cheapy spark tester to check further. It seamed to crank a little slow with the S/G. The frame was full of mouse nesting all around the driveshaft so I assume the shroud is to which may be causing some resistance. I blew the frame clear but have not had time to pull the shroud. I hope to have time to pull the motor and clean everything up this weekend. I will post pics and results. Thanks for the input.

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CDeHeer
Well, I pulled the Hood/Grill/Support this afternoon preparing to pull the motor.


Model 19 Type no. 706054 Serial #676749 I'm not having any luck on the Briggs site with a parts diagram. Any chance someone could help me with a parts manual? Thanks in advance!

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CDeHeer
So I've torn into this a bit.


I am totally lost on the armature setting despite having a Briggs service manual on hand. I am somewhat familiar with the external armeture / Magnetron ignition with a keyed flywheel. I've watched Zippos vids but none address the Arm/coil setting. Any advice is appreciated.


You can see that the armature has been moved recently. New coil?

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BLT
Go here, follow how to get to service book. Toogle down to MagneMatic and then read the pages following conerning the topic.^ http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=119445

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CDeHeer
So I cleaned the rotor and armature, checked the Gap which was a little over .004 but consistent around. Carb kit. Cleaned points, checked gap. .020 New Fuel line, shut off, and filter. New Plug. Fresh oil. Gassed up with 93. It popped immediately but stopped after a couple Revs. As I continued to crank I got sparks out of the muffler and a backfire fireball. Repeated cranking resulted in additional sparks. It had gotten dark so driveway time was up but something in the muffler continued to smolder for 10+ minutes. Back at it tomorrow after work any advise as how to proceed. I wish I had bucked up for the head gasket while I had it out so I could have inspected the valves.

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CDeHeer
I pulled the muffler and it was full of junk but not very restrictive. While I had it off to test run I had intermittent pops. I noticed the keyed switch sparking and got it to run in between run and stop. It sounded great even without the muffler. Jacks wants $30+ Any chance of repairing the switch. Thanks for all the help with this Bob.

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