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4211 engine pulley setup


deezay

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Will the engine pulley off of a 4211 with a 5 speed work on a 4212 hydro? I can pick up a 4212H with no engine for very cheap, and I could easily put the engine from my newly acquired 4211 in that. My boy is having issues with gear box and I've noticed that sometimes you have to take it out and back into neutral to start it. I just want to make sure the pulley from the manual will work with the hydro setup. The part numbers are different but I am not sure what the difference is. Thanks in advance!
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More then likely the two pulleys will bolt up OK. I suspect the diameters on transmission drive side might be different. Do a Google of the Simplicity P/N's and see if any aftermarket vendors offer dimensions with their P/N. Have you traced the neutral wires to see where switch is to isolate the problem?
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The interlock switch on the 5 speed is directly below the bend in the shift lever. Make sure the clutch/brake pedel is in the park position. The Peerless is a little touchy at times. Wayne
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I think it is just a bit touchy. Putting it in gear and then back into neutral works for me. Is there any kind of adjustment on the manual? Sometimes when it is 'in gear' it really isn't as letting go of the clutch does nothing. I've also had the drive belt pop off a few times, I don't see any guides anywhere besides the square-ish one my the clutch pulley. I know the clutch/brake pedal needs adjusted because there are NO brakes what so ever. I am just not sure if these are related. The price for the whole 4212 is basically the same price as what I've found a replacement hood/grille for. I am just wondering if it would be worth the hassle of making a frankenstein mower, or if I should try this manual out. Now that I am thinking, I don't believe this is the original engine, so MAYBE the engine pulley is from a hydro and thats why it keeps popping off. Or maybe I am just being optimistic.
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Numbers are: 252707 067201 The reason I say this about the non-original engine is that there are a few extra wires that have been snipped from the starter area. Thanks.
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Belt guides are actually belt stops . There should be two up front that are on the engine mounting bolts. The stops should be strait round stock bent 90 deg. and an eye on the other end. Most times they are bent away to replace the belt and not bent back to their correct position. Loosen the stops in the future. When the belt is tensioned they should be 1/16" to 1/8" away from the belt . If they hit the pulley before the proper clearance is measured they are not positioned on the correct bolt. This will allow the belt to stop moving when clutch pedal is depressed and not grind gears. There should be another on the idler to keep the belt from misalignment when disengaged. There might be one more belt stop on the transmission pulley , you can look that up in parts or service along with brake adjustment that important with these style belt clutch systems.
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My tractor doesn't have the belt guides, I see them in the parts manual but they aren't on mine. I got the brake and the clutch all adjusted up, and it is working great now. I may just rob the belt guides off of the parts tractor for the mower belt and 'adjust' them to work as drive belt guides, as something has to be better than nothing. The parts tractor I picked up with the hydro has a bad hydro I believe. The latch to disengage it was stuck fast. I don't want to waste time to swap an engine onto a possibly bad hydro. I did get the hood/grille though, and it had the flip style seat with springs... so I nabbed that. I will probably pull the spindles in the deck and trash the rest. It is deeply rusted and rotted. Can anyone with a 4211 measure the wire on the carb that goes from the throttle butterfly to the throttle control? I have the sneaking suspicion that the one I have is not right and too short. Thanks for far for everything fellas!
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It reaches 'maximum noise' level by about 1/2 throttle anything further up it doesn't move the butterfly,. I have it this way so I can atleast have a low idle, otherwise it idles at half throttle.
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The cable may be bent at the lever up on the dash. You can pull the upper half high enough to remove the cable and lever to replace or repair . I think it is only four bolts.
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I have not done any adjustments. I do know that the idle speed screw (on the butterfly) is all the way in and is very loose. If you back it out the vibrations from it running will put it all the way back in. I can see if it is bent. I am planning on replacing the entire console/dash anyways.
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