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Tarheel

Whats going on.

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Tarheel
Whats going on ? Warning, long post..( I've posted about a few things I have going on such as my rusty Nissan and the 3310V I traded for. My new to me 180 amp MIG welder etc. Well, Back in the late fall I finished most of the drivers side floor. I welded panels with my Hobart DC engine stick welder. If you recall, I traded for this truck because the frame was rusted beyond repair in my '83 Nissan. Then I bought the MIG welder and spent a while getting it up and going. Runs like brand new but is set up with .30 wire making it a little tough for welding floor panels so I set the truck floor pan/s job for the time being and started project #2. I posted a while back that I was breaking down an AC 314 H. I kept the electric lift, the engine ( with a broken piston skirt ) every thing from the BG box back including a complete Vickers and so I was basically left with the front frame and axle with tires and rims. I couldn't bring myself to scrap the front axle so I removed and kept it. I kept telling myself it would find a use. Back to the Nissan... Not welding on it but going through it. Replaced the master cylinder, one wheel cylinder and rebuilt both calipers. Nothing about those jobs was easy as the truck had been parked a number of years. Then I started working to get it running. This was the last (half) year or the Nissan 720 trucks as they went to the D series "Hardbody" in 86.5. I own a 1980 model 720, the first year Nissan offered a 4x4 and I have owned 4 84's, one 83 and now the 86. The 86 had Throttle body injection and a pretty basic ECM computer that gives trouble codes at the flip of a switch. Simple ? LOL It is until you figure in the electrician who owned it doing some DIY repairs. After backtracking and rewiring a fair number of connections, I fired up the engine. Got 3 codes right away but was pleased as punch to have it running at all. Codes were Air flow sensor, Throttle position sensor and reverse sensor. Got those (somewhat) taken care of, Tagged and insured the truck and drove it. It ran really hot. Loses coolant when driven but not sitting still. Pump pressure in the coolant and nothing. Drive it very gently and nothing. Put some stress and it runs hot in a short bit. Most people I talked to were quick to say blown head gasket but I've owned enough of these to be fairly sure that isn't the case. The head gaskets I have blown have failed between cylinders. Anyway, I have ( had at that time) the 83 with maybe 30,000 miles on a complete overhaul meaning over $1000 bucks in parts and machine work alone. I was going to scrap the body anyway and would never turn lose of that engine so I'd just do a swap...LOL So I thought. I stripped the 83 leaving nothing usable but the rear axle and would have kept that if I could have loaded it on the trailer without it. Now I have an engine and 5 speed hanging in the garage. My Uncle has my engine stand and the garage is full anyway. I need to move this engine to the barn and free the hoist to pull the engine in the 86. Back to the 314H front axle. I'd build myself a trailer with it. But I didn't want a flat bed to haul the engine riding on the oil pan. So I needed to be able to use the engine mounts. I also wanted to have a flat bed for use in the garden and a sprayer cart. I set to work and when I was done I hitched it to the B10, set the Z24 Nissan and 5 speed on it and hauled them to the horse barn. Hung those and hauled off the 83. Pulled the 86 into the shop, pulled the engine BTW, I failed to mention that the bottom end had a death rattle every time you changed gears. Pulled the head and the gasket was in good shape. Found an exhaust valve guide where it extends into the port to be broken. Haven't pulled the valve yet but 3 and 4 cylinders are clean as a pin. Now I need my good engine. Load the trailer with the bad one and drive around back where I hang it from a tree for now. Back to the barn where I load the engine and tranny. Bring those back to the garage and remove the tranny. Haul it back to the barn and set about getting the good engine ready to drop into the truck. I change the intake from the old engine so I can run the TBI. TBI gaskets are bad and I order new. Now to swap the distributor so the ECM can manage ignition timing etc. Distributor is not even close to fitting. Timing cover has to be changed. Cover is hanging in the tree with the old engine. Brought the old engine back inside and I "think" the covers will interchange without to much trouble. Was going to make the change and drop the engine in tonight but as of now 12:30, storms are keeping me inside. Along with all this, I have the 3310V. I have gotten the thing running and its sweet. I believe it to be a fairly low hour machine but lots of small "bugs". There is a short somewhere and most of the time it will not turn over with the key. I find what I think is the short and fix it. It works a time or two and then does it again and in the same way..LOL Wanting to post pictures but camera is loaded with all the wiring pics from the Nissan. I can't wait till the engine is in it and running as it should because then I can re wrap all the harness the PO opened up. Someone remarked that I just needed a new truck when I posted the rust pics for this one. LOL I have a 2001 2wd Frontier with 60,000 miles on it. I do this because I love these trucks. Not quite as much as I do Simpletractors but for many of the same reasons. They are just plain tough. So thats my update. LOL I hope to have some pictures soon !

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steve-wis
So Terry, what do you do with all of your spare time??:D:D:D Sounds like you have enough projects to keep busy for a while. I don't do heavy automotive stuff, just small things, tune ups, etc. but do have three tractor engines that need to be overhauled and a just purchased Allis B206E to clean up and play with. Hope it all goes together for you, and without too many left over parts! Steve

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Tarheel
Seems the timing cover won't fix. Now I'm left to figure the wiring out to run the old style 2 coil set-up ( Yes, I kept those too), (This is the 4 cylinder Nissan with 8 spark plugs, Napsz=Nissan anti pollution something or other) Guess its that or trying to rework the newer distributor into the old casting. I really don't mind the work either way. The trouble is I no longer have the old truck so I'd have to feel my way on the wiring and I no longer have access to the machine tools to do the distributor. Time to drop back and punt ? LOL

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HubbardRA
Terry, Why do you not weld those floor pans in? I am currently repairing my 85 Chevy Suburban with lots of rust. I have been doing all my welding with a stick welder and 1/8 inch rod. I know most people will say that does not work, but it works for me. With the wire welder just use the minimum current that will start an arc and use the fastest speed that will work with that. Do very short welds so that the metal does not get hot over a large area and blow out a hole. Mostly it is like doing a lot of tack welds. Several years ago I made a new set of floor pans for a Chevette that I bought for my oldest son, and I welded them in with a stick welder and 1/8 inch rods. If I can do it, I am sure you can do it too. Here is a picture of a piece that I welded onto the bottom of a rear inner fender panel on my Suburban last Saturday. Sorry for the water on it, but it was raining a few minutes ago when I snapped the picture. The weld is not pretty, but it will definitely do the job. Welding with the large rod and the higher current, I cannot linger in one spot long enough to produce a pretty weld. It required that I jump around and do only short welds to prevent burn through. I only had to fill a couple holes that I burned through. As you can see from the picture, I still have quite a bit of rust that needs to be replaced before I can install the new quarterpanel. I was lucky in that I got hold of a Suburban from Kansas that was wrecked on the left side and this is the right quarterpanel that I am replacing. The Kansas Suburban has almost no rust, so I am getting the replacement panels from it.


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Tarheel
Rod, I did weld the drivers side floor in with a stick welder. I used 5/64ths rod and my Hobart engine welder. Unlike you and your Chevy, I burned through hundreds of times. ( Due mostly to LOT-lack of talent..LOL) Nissan used some type of mat in the floors and undercoated the body. Whatever they used didn't keep water out but allowed it to get under and there it stayed. With places being eaten away from both the outside and the inside at once, some of the steel that remains is very thin. Once I have both floor pans solid I will very likely go back and weld strips of 18 gauge to insure that there is in fact enough metal to be sure that there are no weak spots. While I can weld with the stick, I'm not so good with it that I don't make a mess when filling the blow outs. I get flux mixed in the welds. But I'm working on it ! LOL Thanks for the reply.

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Tarheel
I got the distributor problem figured out and as of now the engine is hanging over the front of the truck waiting on me to finish up a few odd jobs (Tie up the front of the transmission and weld the smog cross over pipe where it split.) I have a new clutch slave cylinder to install while I'm bolting up the bell-housing as well. The old one would leak down every now and then and you'd find yourself creeping forward at a stop light. A really weird feeling btw. So anyway, if the install goes well I can get back to trying to weld in the passanger floor. I'll then need to figure out something to cover the floors in that will help deaden sound. Any ideas ? I wonder how well having the floor sprayed with bed liner would work ? The best news is that I may soon have a mobile truck and my garage open so I can get back to my tractors. I need to get the chain repaired in the tiller and head for the garden !

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HubbardRA
Bed liner will help a lot. There is a material that is used when installing stereos in cars that will deaden most of the outside sound. It is called dynamat (? spelling). My son used it when he was installing a stereo in one of his vehicles. It is designed to stop metal panels from vibrating.

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dentwizz
Dynomat is an interesting thing for making insular shoe insoles too;) I used to use the scraps from our resto shop for that. I didn't catch whether or not you concluded on the cooling issue? It sounded a lot like a thermostat. One farm I managed had a large diesel generator that would run perfectly fine on the periodic diagnostic routine(30 mins) but after about 2 minutes of load it would overheat and shut down. Sometimes they fail closed, like that and sometimes they fail open, like I had my truck do once. Had to make a 100 mi trip in the snow with an engine not getting above 110 degrees(Thus no heater).

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Tarheel
Josh, I've been so head first in the other engine (It is now in the truck and the top two bell housing bolts are in) That I kinda forgot the overheating problem. I still have my fingers crossed that it wasn't the intake as that is now on the engine I'm putting in the truck. The guy I got the truck from replaced the radiator, fan, clutch, thermostat, belts and added enough block sealer that it closed off a water jacket in the head gasket (May wanna keep that in mind if any of you ever think about using the stuff.) I wish this had been the cause of the overheating but sadly no. Although the closed port was on the rear and this is also where the broken valve guide is so it had to have made things worse. I still have a feeling that the broken valve guide is going to turn out to be a cracked head. I have a second computer out in the garage. I'll pull the valves on that cylinder and post from out there while its on my mind. Thanks for the reminder.

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Tarheel
I can't find anything conclusive one way or the other. This don't make me happy at all. I mean the bottom end was rattling and so needed bearings at least But there is the chance that I've kept the leak with the intake or the TBI as it has coolant lines to it as well..( More later.

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Tarheel
Ok, I got the TBI and the distributor bolted in and the engine bolted into the truck. After getting the timing as close as I could by ear ( Uncle had my timing light, If it seems like he has my tools pretty often you should see all his tools I have LOL ) Drove up around the lower end of the lake and back with no issues as far as overheating goes. Was a bit sluggish still and the computer was throwing codes still. A new pick your own salvage yard had opened about 30 miles away. I looked up their web site andf learned they won't tell you if they have a part, but the price for a TB injection unit was 55 bucks w/o a core. Drove up and there was one Nissan truck on the whole yard that I could find. No hood so the engine had been in the weather who know how long. Both the air flow sensor and the throttle possition sensor were in place (Both coding on the one I have) So I removed it and was back at checkout in 15 minutes. They even had a place to wash up. Very nice and great prices to boot ! Changed out the TBI and it runs almost perfect ! Got my timing light from my uncle and I'm heading out to take care of that shortly. Uncle drove the truck and we both agree, It is the strongest running 720 we have ever driven. Anyway, Hopefully the Simplicity hauler is up and going ! I'll have to replace the rear bumper. Not sure yet if I'll be buying or building it myself. My trailer is a Hardee all steel tilt utility unit. Really heavy. It is a larger 6x10 version of this http://hardeebyevh.com/items.php?cat_id=47&iditem=63 So a strong bumper is a must or maybe a Reese if I could ever find one as they no longer list my truck. BTW, the trailer has a pin hitch. Been thinking about changing to a 2 inch ball hitch for it. Anyone have any idea as to which (or something else) would be better/best ?

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HubbardRA
I have two trailers and my son has one and we have standardized on the 2 inch ball on all of them. Got tired of jumping back and forth between 1 7/8 and 2 inch, so we decided to use the stronger of the two on all the trailers. I have a very heavy duty trailer that will be getting a larger ball if I decide to eliminate the pintle hitch it currently has.

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