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Bru

Eaton 850 in Simplicity 6512.5 Help?

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Bru
Mates: Finally got the brake / clutch idler pulley issue sorta resolved--turns out that P.O. had somehow gotten the whole assembly knocked cock-eyed about 10 degrees. Lots of experimenting with washers and spacers, and the springtime smell of roasting belts, but that's done. Now, however, the ferschlugginer machine will not move when put into gear. I have been careful to disengage the transmission when pushing the inert carcass around, so I hope that's not it. However, when put into either reverse or forward, and any engine speed, the tractor lurches at most about an inch, then no more. Oil in reservoir is frothy after several attempts. I'm going to re-check the brake assembly next, in case the brake is out of adjustment and holding things back. Any other suggestions very welcome--it's been warm and rainy, and the yard weeds are abaout to hit the soffits.

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RickS
Bru, I am far from an expert on a 6512 but from the sound of it you have water in the oil; it should not be frothy. So I would drain and refill that. Replace the filter while you are at it. I am sure others will chime in with more suggestions. Rick.......

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BLT
Oil will also foam if the sump is lacking, not enough. I am imagining that your hydro is whining. Look what happens to low power steering, the pump whines and the oil foams, steering gets harder because you are trying to move things with air bubbles.

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Bru
Got it. Looks like all of you are right. When I got under it this evening, noticed that the wimpy wire "control rod" from the upper engage / disengage lever had a bend in it when the top lever was on "engage". Turned out that the valve /lever on the transmissin was stuck in "mostly disengaged" position. Whew! Will change the transmission oil before next mowing. Thanks, all!

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Al
Hi, To change the oil in this unit, tip the seat deck up. Note there is a plug in the cast iron section, and note the bottom has the exact same plug. Before going any further, CLEAN THE AREA AROUND THE TOP PLUG, SPRAY A LITTLE BRAKE CLEANER OR SIMILAR CLEANER AND BLOW AREA OFF WITH COMPRESSED AIR. HYDRAULICS CANNOT STAND ANY DIRT IN THE SYSTEM. THESE PUMPS HAVE NO FILTER, SO MUST BE PROTECTED AGAINST ANY CONTAMINATION!!!! Pull the bottom plug out and the cap off the reservoir. once the unit is drained, install the bottom plug and remove the top plug. With the top plug removed, pour oil in the reservoir until it comes to the hole where the top plug goes. Install the plug. Fill the reservoir to the fill cold mark about 1/4" from the bottom. If you DO NOT remove the top plug it will take forever to fill the pump because of air lock. Use Simplicity hydraulic oil. If the pump is getting worn and getting weak when hot, put in 15w-50 Mobil 1 or Amzoil Synthetic oil. This MAY squeeze a few more seasons out of a weak pump. These pumps and motors have round balls for pistons. They are selected for fit at the factory in .0001 or tenths of thousands. If you take a new pump apart and the balls come out of the holes and you cannot get them back in the correct holes the pump or motor is probably scrap. Since most hydros now have piston pumps they can function well with a little more clearance than the round balls. The balls ONLY seal at the outer circumference of the ball and the cylinder or hole it is in. This seal point is like about 1 tenth thousandth of an inch wide. The old Vickers hydros called for the select fit pistons to remain in the same holes. The newer Hydro-Gear and some of the Tuff Torque transmissions do not require this. Part of this is from better manufacturing processes and part come from using larger pistons that still pump enough oil with a little more leakage past the pistons. My thoughts and they are free, value accordingly. Al Eden

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