Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

rfrancisco2

Swapping a Command for a Dead Triad

Recommended Posts

rfrancisco2
Well, I have joined the ranks. The Triad engine performed admirably in my 2000 Sovereign till it seized at 400 hours. I am transplanting a 1995 Command CH18S, from a Cub Cadet. The motor bolted right in, but I need help with the wiring. Wiring to the Triad included a single connector with two wires, one red/blue wire and one white, plus the starter cable and engine ground cable. The Command has five wires leaving the engine, (green, purple, white, and 2 @ red), the starter cable and engine ground cable, plus an additional small blue wire coming off the starter. My internet search provided numerous wiring diagrams for various setups, but electrical has always been my weakness, and I don't trust myself trying to interpret them. Anybody able to assist me with this? Thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rfrancisco2
My Sovereign wire harness has a simple two wire plug in connector, containing two wires, one red/blue and one white, which connected to the Triad. A Buddy of mine fixed me up with the Command engine, but unfortunately, the connector had been cut off. The five wires leaving the Command engine, (green, purple, white, and 2 @ red) are over-wrapped as one bundle out of the Command. I am hoping somebody might be able to tell me what colors to connect together, or redirect, etc. Thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
Part 1 of Follow the green wire. That should go to an oil pressure sender. You don't have a low oil pressure light so that can be taped off or removed. The blue wire on the starter is the signal wire to make starter function. The white wire to goes to the white wire, that's the engine kill. More to come. Part 2 of In order to make is as close the Command print a new power wire from the battery to the starter solenoid should be run. The terminal where the existing starter wire is still attached will be used to power the starter solenoid. So now all that has to be done is connect the carb solenoid and alternator wire. More to come.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad
One main wiring issue in the conversion from the Triad to the Command is the primary "+" battery cable. For the Triad, the primary "+" cable runs from the "+" battery terminal to the solenoid mounted on the front of the dash panel. On a Command installation the primary "+" cable runs directly to the solenoid that is mounted on the starter. According to Al Eden, if it's not wired this way, the starter/solenoid may be damaged by a low voltage condition. The Command factory "+" battery cable is a two wire cable, the large primary connects to the starter solenoid and the smaller secondary wire connects to the dash mounted solenoid to feed the dash 12v. Another way to accomplish the same power distribution is to move the heavy red wire that connects from the dash solenoid to the Triad starter to the "battery" side of the solenoid. That is what was done to my 75th when the previous owner converted to a Command. The change in wiring can be seen in this pic:


In the above pic, nothing is connected to the other side of the solenoid since the installed Command used a blower housing mounted key switch for control. To make the dash solenoid functional again, I added a wire from the dash solenoid to engine starter area. I removed the connector from the key switch on the blower housing and routed the wiring with connector to outside the engine near the starter. I bought a matching 5 wire Kohler connector (female) and used the following wiring info to connect the wires:


The "B+ and Carburetor Solenoid Input" is connected to the Red/Blue striped wire that's in the Triad Connector (switched +12v), "Ignition Module Input" is connected to the white wire that's in the Triad Connector (Engine kill - ground), and the "Starter and Carburetor Solenoid Input" is connected to the wire added from the dash mounted solenoid. If your Command has the Oil Pressure Safety switch (green wire) it can be used several ways. The switch is open when there's oil pressure and closes to ground when there's no oil pressure. It's usually connected to a low oil pressure warning light or the engine kill circuit. I choose to use mine in the engine kill circuit. I connected a short jumper wire between the "Ignition Module Input" and the "Oil Pressure Safety Input" connections. So my wiring connector looks like this:


Hope this helps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rfrancisco2
Its Alive! I studied everybody's contribution toward my wiring education, hooked up the wires, and she cranked with the first turn of the key. Installed the plugs, the Command fired off this afternoon, and once around the yard we went. Running a little rough, probably will need some adjusting and possibly some carburetor work, but RUNNING! I couldn't be more thankful for the help. You guys and this forum are great. Thank you to all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×