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snag

kohler 16 mag btm of rod came loose, i need help

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snag
Picked it up 2 years ago, supposed to be rebuilt. Engine got loud, found metal on the dip stick. Was going to have rebuilt (again) took off the bottom of the enging and found the bottom half of the connecting rods bolts were backing out, the oil paddle(i think) broke off. Looking for advise. Can I just replace the bottom part or do I need to go further. Any advise is appreciated Thanks Mike


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MikeES
With the rod cap loose it would have hammered the rod, so the whole rod is shot. Push out the piston, mic the rod journal...if this engine was rebuilt once and the rod journal was undersized for the rod/bearing, that could cause the rod cap bolts to come loose (hammering). Be sure to hone the cylinder to rough it up before reassembly. You may just want to put new rings in anyway.

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snag
Got the piston out, measured the crank where the rod attached and it measured 1.490". Im assuming that there was .010 ground off the crank? So i would need an .010 under connecting rod?. While we are in a crash course in engine rebuild. Can I reuse the head gasket? Head bolts? I am cleaning the carbon off the head. Anything else I should be doing in here. Ray can you get me the connecting rod and rings with the current info or would you need any thing else. By the way, thanks much for the hand holding to all you guys. Mike

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D-17_Dave
I can't qoute the size of the crank diam. but it's VERY important that the crank is perfectly round at the desired size. If you have a pan full of metal I bet your looking at crank damage.

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snag
Allright, so I have everthing apart, and everthing seems to look ok. My crank should measure 1.500" and its .010 under which seems to be common. So I am going to try and find a replacement rod and rings, hone the cylender. Replace them and see what happens. Ray do you sell these? or is there somewhere you guys use?

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by snag
my connecting rod just came in. Does it need to go in anyway special with the oil hole?
Here is the link for the service manual. http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2203_a.pdf

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D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by snag
my connecting rod just came in. Does it need to go in anyway special with the oil hole?
Big end goes to the crankshaft, little end to the piston, I think...lol:o)

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snag
Update I ended up having to shim about .008 between the rod and bottom of rod, so it wouldnt bind. Buttoned it back up and its got about 2 hours of running time so far, so good. Thanks again for the hand holding.

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Al
Hi, This looks like an aftermarket rod to me. I may be wrong. If it is a Kohler rod, IT MUST BE THE CORRECT PART NO TO MATCH THE PISTON IT GOES WITH. MUST, MUST!. The early piston requires the early rod, the Mahe pistons require the matching rod. If you had to shim it, something it wrong. If the crank is ground .010 under, a .010 rod should have the correct clearance. I would be looking for the issue here. I personally do not use aftermarket parts. With the history of changes and fixes in the genuine Kohler rods, this is the only way I go, as I have to guarantee my work. Al Eden

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snag
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380422414075?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 this is what i ended up getting. I will plan on tearing it back apart and seeing what piston I have and going from there. Do you have a supplier of genuine Kohler rods?

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