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7117 starting issue.


steveo358

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I have a magnum 18 in my 7117. Seal front seal blew out a couple weeks back. I tried to restart it at the time, and wouldnt do anything after seal blew. Never ever had any starting issue till then. Got the motor fixed, and reinstalled it, and same thing. I ran a jumper wire from solenoid to battery and it will start right up. Can jump across solenoid, and will hit there also. Do I have a bad switch? When I turn key, I hear nothing at the solenoid, no click, no nothing. What do you guys think. Thanks in advance. Steve
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sounds like safety (?)interlocks are acting up. or the interlock module could be the culprit. The state of the Safe switches change, based on the model of the machine. E.G. on my 4212, there are 3 switches Gear shift on neutral, someone sitting on the seat, PTO disengaged. My switches are NO (normally open or off). The safe condition is "on", and all 3 have to be on for the start position of the ignition switch to activate the solenoid. This monitored by the interlock module.I have an all encompassing electrical manual, that I got from RayS. Please note there is no consistant color code on the cabling, or how it is implemented; from model to model, and production runs. I'll email it to you.
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Hi, I would suspect the safety switches. It could also be the solenoid, or the key switch. Also check the wire that pushes on the circuit breaker. Grass commonly collects behind the battery and draws moisture. The circuit breaker has 12volts all the time. If the grass touches the terminals of the breaker, it will destroy the metal of the push on connector by electrolysis. If this happens and it is common, the whole wiring system will be dead. (This a very common problem). The cable to the solenoid will still be hot and jumping the solenoid big terminals will run the starter. If the terminal at the breaker is eroded, you can cut the terminal off and crimp a ring terminal on and clean up the threads on the breaker with a wire wheel and then use a couple of I believe 8-32 or maybe 10-32 nuts. Then tape the terminal up or cover with liquid tape as that post shorting out can start a fire as it is a direct feed from the battery. If this isn't the problem on the earlier tractors without an interlock module. When the key is turned to start, 12v goes to the neutral switch, (check the tractor is in neutral and the shift lever is pushing in on the switch sticking through the cowl.) and then through the PTO safety switch, be sure the PTO is disengaged, the 12 volts goes to the PTO switch located under the frame and operated by the PTO lever. Then it goes to the solenoid. If you use a test light and see if the solenoid is getting 12v to the small terminal when the key goes to start. If you don't have a test light, just take a short length of wire and jump from the terminal with the cable from the battery and the small terminal on the solenoid. If this makes the starter turn, the solenoid is OK. then start checking through the other switches. One other area to check is the B terminal of the ignition switch. Since it has 12 volts all the time this terminal is commonly rusted or corroded badly. If you take a test light and put it on the S terminal of the key switch, and it lights when you go to start, the problem is in the wiring and switches and the solenoid. If jumping the solenoid (to small term) doesn't cause it to click in, it is probably bad. The alternative to this is to put a test light on the small terminal and see if 12v is there when the switch goes to start. If so the rest of the wiring is OK and the solenoid is bad. (this would be my first check after looking at the breaker and the shift lever pushing in on the switch and being sure the PTO is disengaged. Al Eden
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Does this engine have an oil sentry of some sort? I am not aware of one on these, but if it does and it did it's job, maybe it has not reset itself?
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Thanks to Grinchey and Al. I must be learning something by osmosis, just hanging out here. I read a lot of stuff; and somehow my first thought jumped to safety switches. But now I am armed with excellent info, thanx to you guys. Some people jump to replacing solenoids immediately, without testing. I have heard others say that solenoids usually are not the problem. Well, it's all here; and the tests too. wow. dOd
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