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heron

Koler magnum plug?

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heron
New tractor, according to numbers the motor is a 1989 tractor manual says RV15yc gap .025. Manual online for M18S says RV17 YC at 035 . I already put in the RV15 and gapped them at 025 and it runs well. What do u guys think? Also, manual says Sae 30 for oil..is there something better/updated ?

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BLT
If it runs fine leave it. As far as oils go, it was designed with a certain grade in mind and oil is relatively cheap. Most garden tractors average about 50 hours of use a year and in miles that about 1100, so changing it once a year is in the ballpark.

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MysTiK
sae 30 is typical for warm weather. 5w-20 is typical for cold weather, and will make starting easier. Updates? No. But some are using synthetic oils. It gets personal and theoretical beyond that. I use the recommended sae30 in my Kohler K341s, also in my 13.5hp Intek. Kohler castiron K-series tend to run hotter than most. Multigrade oils might not be adequate on a very hot day. I change oil when it goes dark. (probably 2x per year). I check oil often, when I first got it, the previous owner was offering really black oil. So I pay attention to that, perhaps more than needed. I have greatly reduced "smoke" tendencies, by changing oil very early, to clean it up. (2x in 1 month) On a (new) machine, I would watch it carefully for the first while; until you know more. .

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heron
Okay, thanks for all the info..plugs will stay in and 30 wt it is. One thing I don't understand about the manual is it says to drain the hydro by removing the hose under the filter, yet there is a perfectly good drain plug at the bottom of the hydro case...? That is where I drained it on my Sunstar..?

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heron
Mystik: This is a S-Magnum...? It seems to run very hot..I guess this is normal, right? Starts on maybe a half turn of the motor. I posted a question on this forum about mulching also. This deutz with the 48 and the Magnum is spunkier than my Command 20(600hrs) with the 60" deck. I cut my father in laws front yard yesterday and had to watch out when moving from forward and reverse as it would want to spin the tires. Should these Magnums run at a lighter throttle and lug more..I run my Command that way. Do you happen to know if the hydro must be drained from the hose or can I drain from the plug on the bottom..b/c that is what I did. It also didn't take 6qts as the manual said..approx. 5..but may be due to the fact I didn't drain by removing the clamp and using the hose...?

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rokon2813
quote:
Originally posted by heron
Mystik: This is a S-Magnum...? It seems to run very hot..I guess this is normal, right? Starts on maybe a half turn of the motor. I posted a question on this forum about mulching also. This deutz with the 48 and the Magnum is spunkier than my Command 20(600hrs) with the 60" deck. I cut my father in laws front yard yesterday and had to watch out when moving from forward and reverse as it would want to spin the tires. Should these Magnums run at a lighter throttle and lug more..I run my Command that way. Do you happen to know if the hydro must be drained from the hose or can I drain from the plug on the bottom..b/c that is what I did. It also didn't take 6qts as the manual said..approx. 5..but may be due to the fact I didn't drain by removing the clamp and using the hose...?
Throttle setting when mowing can create large amounts of discussion with varying opinion. That said, my opinion is;; Decks and blades are designed to run at wide open throttle to create the proper lift and wind speed to adequately stand up the grass for proper cutting and discharge. At slower RPM, some of the grass flattened by tires and or blown sideways by the lesser vacuum does not get cut at the correct height. If your grass is tall enough, thick enough, or the right variety, sometimes you can even see it. Usually a nice sunny day, the day after you mow, you can see "tire tracks" that appear slightly taller. Also, without the proper "wind" speed, some of the clippings do not get thrown to the outside the first time around, thus getting cut more than once, but this also creates some of the lower RPM lugging you refer to, because the deck is cutting and spinning more clippings than necessary. JMO for what it's worth

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MysTiK
It's a strange mix of personal preference and following instrux from the manual. Lugging? to me means rpm is way too low, like ridiculous, idle speed or worse - key item is to not run the hydro at low low rpm. Kohler idle speed spec (on mine) K341 castiron single, is 1200rpm - but - the ALLIS manual specs idle rpm at 1800!!!! I think the message is to maintain a good spin rate on the HYDRO!! Running a hydro too slow will kill it, reduce life expectancy. I run my 48" mower often at approx 3/4 throttle, where it feels good, sounds good - also I will sometimes use full throttle. Half throttle is probably too slow, and I mean that as what Rokon said - no lift, tire tracks, rip and tear on the grass, rather than the ideal strong lift action, quick clean cut action, w tracks a non-issue. I have not studied what minimum rpm would be for clean cut. (get down on all fours and LOOK at the blades of grass themselves - esp. the "tips" of the grass individual plants! Cutting with dull blades, or too slow blades, is like cutting with a 2x4 - not a clean cut. Where to draw the line? hard to say. On a sunny day, a bad cut appears "whitish", esp. on the "going away stripes". That's from dried out tips on blades of individual grass plants - all of them. take a look at that. That's from dull or too slow blade speed leaving a "ragged edge", like it was cut with a dull spoon. Your hydro sounds pretty frisky - maybe just not what you are used to. 3/4 throttle might make it less prone to radicle wheel spin, or maybe adjust or clean the hydro linkages. Lube might attract dust.?? As for changing hydro fluid, I hope you actually changed the filter also. Hydros really hate anything resembling contamination, either dirt, or metal filings, etc. My 700-series manual has immense details on how to change fluid. Lots of talk like "clean dirt from fill plug" so nothing falls inside!! It says set in "freewheel", use drain plug, then remove filter. But there's also a "vent rod" (near left wheel) to relieve pressure, or vacuum, before, or during drainage. It's done hot also. Mine's older 716H - the hydro filter is upside down and has 2 hoses to and from it (a "remote" filter). Newer ones are filter attached to side of trans pump body. These are "fine" filters (25 MICRONS) and a lot of people use WIX brand, there are other good brands too - fram is not recommended, forget why. Change annually is recommended. I use ATF per spec. I assume you have a "Sundstrand trans". If you want detailed instrux from my manual, link is here. Or try 1690211 at briggs; would not work for my lame dialup connex. (see page 29) http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/simplicity/1690211.html

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MysTiK
Also vent tube can be used for easier refilling. Note that to "check" fluid level, trans must be cold - or it will spew ATF all over the garage floor. Don't ask how I learned this. B) Also the fill pipe must be on correct angle to check correct fluid level - see manual. Mine wasn't; easy fix. I swear most people don't do all this stuff, maybe they do - it's a lot of detail. That Allis Manual has a completely different taste to the supposedly identical Simp manual. They are different. And I like it. PIX look better at Zoom=150 good luck.

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