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MikethePlumber

Tiller belt info -pic added

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MikethePlumber
I order 2 new belts from Simplicity for my Big Ten to run the tiller. I had the belt numbers as: PTO to tiller drive #105122 Tiller drive to Tiller #154273 The PTO to tiller drive belt seems correct, but I cannot get the #154273 Tiller drive to tiller belt to go on. It seeems short. Do I have the correct belts for my application? -thanks, Mike

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RayS
According to the manual you do. Is the tiller setup as described in the manual? http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8aqI1rE3Cvh5kbp796Dq

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MikethePlumber
Ray, It seems to be set up as in the manual. I will go through all the steps again later today. What size should the pulley be on the tiller itself? Mine measures about 6 1/2". Also, the screw adjuster for belt tension that is supposed to be turned counter clockwise to loosen seems to be backed of already. Is it possible that something is rusted not allowing the adjustment that I need?

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B110guy
I think the rod that goes into the lift is supposed to move (pivot). I have that problem on mine and the belt wouldn't tighten. Sounds like yours might be rusted in a position that you can't get the belt on. B110guy

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RayS
That sounds like the correct pulley. Make sure you have full adjustment on the adjuster and any idler brackets that have a bushing inside are not seized up. I have had bushings seize in mower deck idlers and hydrostat idler brackets. I add grease zerks to most all my idler brackets now even on the hydro idler brackets. I have bought tractors where they sat outside so long or not used in quite awhile that the bushing rust weld themselves to idler brackets.

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GregB
I am just fixing that issue on the tiller I am getting together for Wayne (grincheyone). Had to completely dis-assemble the hitch/pivot bracket because it seized. When I did break it loose I drilled and installed a grease zerk. On the 32" curve sheild tiller I had to remove the adjustment handle and use a peice of all thread to get the adjustment travel needed without bottoming the adjustment handle on the mounting. Like this:
[img]/club2/attach/GregB/smallcurve1.jpg[/img]

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RayS
The double pulley idler (PTO) on tractor also has a bushing as well make sure that is freed up. I bought a tractor once that the rear PTO was rusted so bad to the rear lift that I had to drill the rear lift out of the PTO in a drill press. Guy I bought it from said tractor sat outside for over 15 years.

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MikethePlumber
I think you guys are right. Part of my hitch assembly may be siezed not allowing for my adjustment. In the pic below, is the part that I am pointing to supposed to move freely?


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GregB
Yep that's the ugly one that can cause a lot of work. The pin is welded to the one bracket, and keyed with set-screw to the other. The first one I broke loose, I just had to remove the adjustment screw and put a big pipe wrench on the bracket to break it loose. The last one I did it was so tight I was starting to twist the 5/8" shaft :O Repeated heating and cooling and PB Blaster soak was not working. Ended up grinding the weld that held the shaft to the bracket. Mounted it in my 20ton Press. Eventually it saw it my way.:D. Back together again with a grease zerk. Just have to reweld the cross shaft.

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MikethePlumber
I guess that non-moving part of my hitch assembly is my problem. I'll soak it with WD-40 once a day for the next few days, then try to seperate it. I have torches to heat it, but will have to go to a buddys house to use his 20 ton press if needed. Great idea about installing a grease zerk on it, and one will be added to mine also. This must have been seized since before I got it, as all my attachments, and my tractor sit inside the garage. I'll post what worked for me on getting it apart, and if you guys have suggestions, lets hear them!!

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